This is Issue 21.

PRADA - CLARITY

Prada delivered one of the most discussed collections of Milan Fashion Week with its Spring/Summer 2027 presentation titled Clarity. Rather than embracing spectacle or complexity, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons focused on reduction, purpose and simplicity. Clean silhouettes, lightweight tailoring and restrained styling defined the collection, offering a vision of luxury built around longevity rather than excess. The show reflected a growing desire for clothing that feels relevant beyond a single season while challenging the industry’s recent obsession with constant novelty. In a moment where fashion often competes for attention through scale and noise, Prada proposed a quieter alternative. The collection reinforced the house’s influence while helping shape the conversation around the future direction of menswear.

GUCCI OPENS PALAZZO GUCCI

Gucci expanded its cultural presence in Florence with the opening of Palazzo Gucci, a new destination dedicated to the brand’s history, identity and future ambitions. Located in the city where Gucci was founded, the space combines archival storytelling, exhibitions and contemporary brand experiences under one roof. The opening arrives at a significant moment for the house as attention continues to build around its next chapter under Demna. More than a retail project, Palazzo Gucci represents an investment in cultural positioning and long-term brand building. By connecting heritage with contemporary relevance, Gucci continues to strengthen its role beyond fashion while creating a physical landmark that celebrates both its past and future.

SIMONE ROCHA DEBUTS AT PITTI UOMO

One of the most anticipated moments of the menswear season came from Simone Rocha, who presented her first dedicated menswear runway show at Pitti Uomo in Florence. Known for blending romanticism, craftsmanship and unconventional proportions, Rocha brought her distinctive visual language to a new audience while expanding the scope of her brand. The presentation demonstrated how contemporary menswear continues to evolve beyond traditional definitions, embracing softness, decoration and emotional expression alongside tailoring and structure. As the industry searches for new perspectives, Rocha’s debut stood out as one of the most significant presentations of the week. The show marked an important milestone for the designer while highlighting the increasingly fluid boundaries shaping modern fashion.

THE BIG DEBUTS

Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 will be defined by a series of highly anticipated debuts. Michael Rider is set to present his first menswear collection for Celine, marking the beginning of a new chapter for one of fashion’s most influential houses. Sarah Burton will unveil her first menswear collection for Givenchy, expanding her vision beyond womenswear and into a category that remains central to the Paris calendar. At the same time, Meryll Rogge prepares to present the first menswear collection under her own label following her appointment as Creative Director of Marni. Together, these debuts represent more than new collections. They offer the first real indication of how several important creative transitions may shape the future of luxury fashion.

KENZO BUILDS A WORLD

Rather than focusing solely on a runway presentation, Kenzo is transforming Place des Victoires into a week-long public experience during Paris Fashion Week. The activation includes a showroom, coffee shop, market, flower shop and a series of brand-led cultural initiatives designed to bring visitors directly into the world of the house. The project reflects a broader industry movement in which fashion brands increasingly operate as cultural platforms rather than product-driven businesses. As consumers seek deeper engagement and community, labels are investing in experiences that extend beyond the runway. Kenzo’s approach demonstrates how fashion continues to evolve from seasonal presentations into immersive environments that combine retail, hospitality, culture and storytelling.

EMERGING MOMENTUM

Several emerging and evolving names are entering Paris Fashion Week with significant momentum. Soshiotsuki joins the official Paris calendar following international recognition and growing attention from buyers and editors worldwide. Feng Chen Wang continues to strengthen her position as one of the most closely watched voices in contemporary menswear, building a global audience through her distinctive approach to design and construction. Meanwhile, Peter Copping prepares his first standalone menswear presentation for Lanvin on the official schedule, marking an important step in the house’s ongoing evolution. Together, these developments highlight a season shaped not only by major luxury brands, but also by a new generation of designers redefining the future of menswear.

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This is Issue 20.