This is Issue 38.

McQUEEN - SEÁN McGIRR EXITS

Alexander McQueen is entering another period of creative uncertainty following the departure of Seán McGirr, whose tenure at the British fashion house comes to an end after approximately three years. The announcement arrives only weeks after McQueen’s highly anticipated return to London Fashion Week, a moment that was intended to reconnect the house with the city and creative culture that shaped its founder. McGirr’s appointment represented an attempt to develop a new identity for McQueen following Sarah Burton’s long period of leadership, balancing the brand’s theatrical heritage with a more contemporary approach to clothing. His departure raises questions about the future direction of the house at a time when its parent company is navigating wider commercial challenges. As the fashion industry continues experiencing an unusually rapid cycle of creative-director changes, McQueen becomes another example of the tension between long-term creative development and the immediate expectations placed on luxury brands.

CALVIN KLEIN - VERONICA LEONI DEPARTS

Calvin Klein is preparing for another creative transition following the departure of Veronica Leoni after just four collections. Her appointment was intended to restore the relevance of Calvin Klein Collection within the international designer fashion landscape, reconnecting the American brand with its minimalist heritage while introducing a more contemporary perspective. Leoni approached the house through restrained silhouettes, precise tailoring and a renewed emphasis on the understated sensuality that once defined Calvin Klein’s identity. However, her relatively short tenure highlights the increasing pressure facing creative directors tasked with repositioning established fashion brands. Rebuilding a recognizable design language requires time, particularly for a company operating across multiple commercial categories and audiences. The departure leaves Calvin Klein facing another important decision about its creative future and raises broader questions about whether the industry’s current pace of leadership changes allows designers sufficient time to establish meaningful identities.

MARK GONG - SHANGHAI’S MILLION-DOLLAR MOMENT

Shanghai-based designer Mark Gong is emerging as an increasingly significant figure within China’s rapidly developing independent fashion industry. Known for his distinctive interpretation of contemporary femininity, Gong has built a recognizable aesthetic combining sensual silhouettes, youthful references and an approach to glamour shaped by both Chinese and international fashion culture. His growing commercial success reflects a wider transformation within the Chinese market, where independent designers are developing businesses capable of competing for attention beyond their domestic audiences. Rather than relying exclusively on established European luxury houses, younger consumers are increasingly engaging with local labels that offer strong identities and a closer connection to contemporary culture. Gong’s development demonstrates how Shanghai is evolving from an important luxury consumer market into a creative center capable of producing internationally relevant fashion businesses. The industry’s next generation is increasingly emerging from cities outside the traditional European fashion capitals.

SS27 - THE BUYERS HAVE SPOKEN

Following the conclusion of the Spring/Summer 2027 fashion season, international buyers are beginning to identify which runway ideas are likely to translate into commercial success. While fashion shows often emphasize spectacle and creative experimentation, buyers approach collections through a different perspective, considering customer demand, product relevance and the balance between distinctive design and everyday wearability. Among the recurring directions identified for SS27 are more defined waistlines and increasingly unconventional footwear, reflecting a continued interest in expressive silhouettes and accessories with strong visual identities. The buying process also reveals the distance that can exist between critical attention and commercial expectations. Not every widely discussed runway moment becomes a successful product, and some of the season’s most commercially relevant pieces receive relatively little attention during fashion week. As the industry moves toward the next retail season, the focus shifts from what designers presented to what consumers may ultimately choose to wear.

This is Issue 37.

SAINT LAURENT - END OF AN ERA

Anthony Vaccarello is leaving Saint Laurent after a decade as creative director, bringing one of luxury fashion’s most consistent creative partnerships to an end. Since taking over in 2016, Vaccarello developed a highly recognizable visual language built around sharp tailoring, sensuality, dramatic silhouettes and a carefully controlled interpretation of the house’s Parisian identity. Rather than reinventing Saint Laurent every season, he established a coherent universe that extended across collections, campaigns and the brand’s wider cultural presence. His departure arrives during a period of significant creative restructuring across the luxury industry, where long-standing relationships between designers and fashion houses have become increasingly rare. For Saint Laurent, the challenge now lies in finding a new creative direction without losing the strong identity developed over the past decade. For Vaccarello, the departure opens the question of what comes next after one of the defining creative directorships of contemporary luxury fashion.

KIM JONES - THE RETURN

Kim Jones is preparing to return to the fashion industry with a renewed focus on his own namesake label, following his influential tenures at Dior Men and Fendi. Having spent years shaping the identities of established luxury houses, Jones is now exploring the opportunity to build a creative universe under his own name. The project is expected to move beyond traditional runway collections, incorporating a broader lifestyle approach and a stronger emphasis on direct relationships with consumers. Plans for a substantial flagship retail space suggest an ambition to create something more permanent than another seasonal fashion label. Throughout his career, Jones has demonstrated an ability to connect luxury craftsmanship with streetwear, music and contemporary culture, helping reshape the relationship between high fashion and a younger generation. His return to independent design raises an interesting question about the future of established creative directors: whether building their own businesses may become more attractive than moving between the industry’s largest fashion houses.

MATIÈRES FÉCALES - FASHION’S MOST-WATCHED

One of the most surprising developments following the Spring/Summer 2027 fashion season came from Vogue Runway’s audience figures, where independent label Matières Fécales reportedly emerged as the most-viewed show, ahead of some of the industry’s largest luxury houses. Known for its provocative imagery, unconventional beauty ideals and uncompromising visual identity, the Paris-based label has developed a distinctive position between fashion, performance and underground culture. Its growing visibility reflects a wider shift in how audiences discover and engage with contemporary fashion. Rather than relying exclusively on established brand recognition, younger audiences increasingly respond to designers who offer recognizable worlds, strong cultural identities and something genuinely unexpected. The attention surrounding Matières Fécales demonstrates how independent labels can compete for cultural relevance even without the resources of global luxury groups. In an industry often dominated by commercial scale, originality remains one of fashion’s most powerful currencies.

FASHION GETS PHYSICAL AGAIN

As artificial intelligence continues transforming the production and circulation of fashion imagery, designers are increasingly exploring the qualities that digital perfection struggles to reproduce: physical presence, sensuality, imperfection and human emotion. Across recent collections, houses including Mugler and Tom Ford, alongside designers such as Glenn Martens, have revisited the relationship between clothing and the body through more provocative silhouettes, tactile materials and heightened expressions of sexuality. The movement reflects more than another seasonal return to revealing clothing. It suggests a growing interest in experiences that feel immediate and unmistakably human at a moment when visual culture is becoming increasingly artificial. Fashion has always used the body as a space for experimentation, but the contrast between physical reality and digitally constructed perfection gives that relationship new significance. Rather than rejecting technology entirely, designers appear to be emphasizing the emotional and sensory qualities that make fashion something more than an image.

This is Issue 36.

CHANEL - BLAZY TAKES FLIGHT

Matthieu Blazy is beginning to move beyond the conversation surrounding his arrival at Chanel and toward something more important: establishing what his version of the house actually looks like. For Spring 2027, the designer continued loosening some of Chanel’s most recognizable codes, bringing greater movement and freedom to silhouettes while maintaining the craftsmanship that remains central to the house. Tweed and familiar references remained present, but they were treated as materials for experimentation rather than rules that needed to be protected. Even the collection’s 83 individual pairs of shoes reflected the extraordinary level of detail behind the project. A year into his tenure, Blazy’s Chanel increasingly feels less like a reinterpretation of an archive and more like a living fashion house developing a contemporary identity of its own.

BALENCIAGA - COUTURE FOR EVERY DAY

Pierpaolo Piccioli continues to define his Balenciaga by exploring the space between the house’s couture history and the reality of contemporary clothing. For Spring 2027, the designer brought techniques and principles associated with haute couture into pieces designed for everyday life, allowing precision and construction to exist without requiring constant spectacle. The approach creates an interesting bridge between Cristóbal Balenciaga’s architectural legacy and the radically different identity the house developed during the Demna era. Rather than choosing one history over another, Piccioli appears increasingly interested in finding a language capable of acknowledging both. One year into his tenure, the result is a Balenciaga that feels softer and more human while still relying on the technical discipline that made the name important in the first place.

DIOR - JONATHAN ANDERSON LIGHTENS UP

Jonathan Anderson used Spring 2027 to bring a new sense of lightness to Dior, continuing his rapid transformation of one of fashion’s most historically significant houses. Chiffon, fluid construction and references to nature gave the collection a sense of movement that contrasted with the weight traditionally associated with Dior’s archive and institutional identity. After an extraordinary sequence of collections since taking control of the house, the conversation around Anderson is beginning to move beyond the initial shock of his appointment. Each season now adds another piece to a much larger project: determining how Dior’s history can remain visible without controlling its future. Rather than treating heritage as something fixed, Anderson continues to pull it apart, reinterpret it and occasionally ignore it entirely, allowing a different version of Dior to gradually emerge.

COURRÈGES - DREW HENRY DEBUTS

Drew Henry made one of Paris Fashion Week’s most closely watched debuts as the new creative director of Courrèges. Having previously worked within the creative worlds of Phoebe Philo, Jonathan Anderson and Daniel Lee, Henry arrives with experience shaped by some of contemporary fashion’s most influential designers. His challenge at Courrèges is particularly complex. The house carries the futuristic legacy of André Courrèges while its recent identity was significantly reshaped by Nicolas Di Felice, creating two distinct histories for a new designer to navigate. Henry’s first collection began that process by reconsidering the minimalism, sensuality and precision associated with the brand rather than attempting an immediate reinvention. The debut marks the beginning of a new creative chapter and positions Henry as another name to watch as Paris continues its wider generational shift.

RICK OWENS - STONE AND WATER

Rick Owens once again transformed the Palais de Tokyo into something closer to a ritual than a conventional runway show. For Spring 2027, models crossed a long structure above the water while fountains surrounded the presentation, creating a monumental environment that extended the collection beyond clothing. Stone became an important reference, connected to ideas of stoicism, sacrifice and permanence, while Owens continued developing the elongated and architectural silhouettes that have made his universe instantly recognizable. At a moment when fashion shows are increasingly optimized for digital images and short clips, Owens continues to demonstrate the power of physical experience. His shows are not simply environments created around collections, but part of the meaning of the clothing itself. Paris became theatre again, reinforcing why Owens remains one of fashion’s most singular world-builders.

MAISON MARGIELA - MARTENS GETS REAL

Glenn Martens used Spring 2027 to explore a different side of his evolving Maison Margiela. After demonstrating how theatrical and technically extreme his interpretation of the house can become, the designer turned toward a more practical question: how can Margiela’s anti-fashion philosophy translate into clothing people actually want to wear? Familiar house codes remained visible, but the tension shifted toward contrasts between hard and soft, conceptual and commercial, dramatic and everyday. The result did not abandon Margiela’s experimental identity, but instead tested how far that identity can stretch into a functioning contemporary wardrobe. For Martens, this balance may prove particularly important. Margiela has always existed through contradiction, and his challenge is not simply to preserve that history, but to make its unconventional thinking relevant to the realities of a modern global fashion house.

This is Issue 35.

DONATELLA VERSACE STARTS AGAIN

Donatella Versace is beginning one of the most significant chapters of her career after stepping away from the creative leadership of Versace. In partnership with Revolve Group, the designer is developing a new independent brand expected to launch its first products in 2027. Rather than recreating Versace under another name, the project is being positioned as a broader fashion and beauty universe aimed at a new generation of consumers. The move gives Donatella an opportunity she has rarely had during her career: the freedom to build an identity from the beginning without carrying the responsibility of the house founded by her brother Gianni. After decades spent protecting and evolving one of fashion’s most recognizable brands, the question now becomes what Donatella Versace chooses to create when the name Versace is no longer the framework.

MOSCHINO - THE SUNNEI ERA BEGINS

Moschino entered a new creative era in Milan as Sunnei founders Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo presented their first collection as co-creative directors of the house. The appointment brings together two brands connected by an instinct for humor, experimentation and challenging the conventions of Italian fashion. Rather than attempting to erase Moschino’s eccentric history, Messina and Rizzo began exploring how its codes can function within their own contemporary visual language. The pairing feels particularly relevant for a house built on irony, because Sunnei developed its reputation by questioning the traditional fashion system itself. Their debut was also one of Milan Fashion Week’s most closely watched creative transitions, beginning the difficult process of transforming Moschino’s recognizable past into something capable of speaking to a new generation.

GUCCI - DEMNA FINDS HIS GUCCI

Demna’s second major ready-to-wear collection for Gucci offered a clearer picture of the house he is beginning to construct. For Spring 2027, the designer looked across different periods of Gucci rather than allowing a single era to define the collection, combining equestrian references, late 1980s and early 1990s codes, glamorous tailoring and elements associated with the Tom Ford years with his own instinct for disruption. Even the presentation blurred the relationship between fashion and commerce, transforming the environment into something resembling a Gucci store. Instead of treating the archive as a fixed identity, Demna appears to be using it as material that can be continuously rearranged. The result suggests that his Gucci will not be defined by one historical reference, but by the tension between the house’s many identities and his own contemporary perspective.

PRADA - THE SKIRT TAKES OVER

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reduced Spring 2027 to one of fashion’s most familiar garments and then used repetition to reconsider what it could become. Across all 63 looks, skirts formed the foundation of the collection, with conventional trousers and dresses removed from the equation. Rather than producing a single silhouette, Prada explored the garment through contrasting proportions, materials and styling, turning limitation into the central creative device of the show. The approach reflects a recurring idea within Prada: taking something apparently ordinary and making it feel strange through context rather than decoration. At a moment when collections are increasingly expected to generate instant visual spectacle, focusing so relentlessly on one everyday garment felt almost deliberately resistant. The skirt was not presented as a seasonal trend, but as a design problem with dozens of possible answers.

This is Issue 34.

ALEXANDER McQUEEN COMES HOME

Alexander McQueen returned to London Fashion Week for the first time in 25 years, bringing the house back to the city that shaped both its founder and its original identity. Under creative director Seán McGirr, the homecoming became an opportunity to reconnect the contemporary McQueen with its own history without simply reproducing the past. McGirr looked toward the archives and London’s creative culture while also reconnecting with figures closely associated with the house, including jeweller Shaun Leane. The significance of the show extended beyond the collection itself. McQueen was born from London’s ability to turn rebellion, subculture and experimentation into fashion, and its return places that relationship back at the centre of the conversation. For McGirr, it also marks another step in establishing his own interpretation of the house while acknowledging the creative world from which it emerged.

CHRISTOPHER KANE × MULBERRY

Christopher Kane made his return to the London fashion conversation through Mulberry, presenting his first collection for the British heritage brand after the closure of his namesake label in 2023. Rather than treating Mulberry’s history as something untouchable, Kane approached familiar house codes with the irreverence and unexpected details that have defined his career. The iconic Bayswater was reconsidered alongside new bag shapes, while leather became a space for experimentation rather than simply tradition. The partnership brings together two very different sides of British fashion: Mulberry’s established heritage and Kane’s instinct for transforming familiar ideas into something stranger and more provocative. At a moment when many heritage brands are searching for ways to remain culturally relevant, Kane’s arrival demonstrates how an established identity can evolve through a genuinely distinctive creative voice.

FASHION EAST - THE NEXT GENERATION

Fashion East once again used London Fashion Week to introduce the designers who could shape the city’s next creative chapter. This season brought the debut of Mé Mé alongside returning designers Jacek Gleba and Traiceline Pratt’s Goyagoma, three labels with distinctly different approaches but a shared willingness to experiment outside conventional commercial fashion. Mé Mé arrived through the Central Saint Martins pipeline, while Gleba continued developing his increasingly recognizable design language and Goyagoma expanded a world built around Pratt’s individual perspective. Fashion East has spent decades functioning as one of London’s most important launchpads, previously supporting designers who went on to transform British fashion. Its continued relevance matters at a moment when young independent labels face increasingly difficult economic conditions. London remains compelling precisely because new designers are still given space to experiment before the industry decides what they should become.

FRANCESCA LAKE - WAKE THE TOWN

Francesca Lake emerged as one of London Fashion Week’s notable new voices with “Wake the Town,” a collection that brought her Jamaican heritage into dialogue with historical European dress and contemporary London fashion. Lace, corsetry and crinoline-inspired structures appeared alongside leather and denim, allowing Lake to move between tradition, sensuality and street-level references without reducing the collection to a single cultural influence. Rather than treating heritage as decoration, the designer used it as the foundation for a broader exploration of identity and construction. The result demonstrated why London remains such an important environment for emerging designers: its strongest new voices often come from combining personal histories that traditional fashion categories struggle to contain. With her LFW debut, Lake moves from being a name to watch toward establishing a recognizable world of her own.

This is Issue 33.

CONNER IVES COMES HOME

Conner Ives brought his label to New York Fashion Week for the first time, creating a homecoming moment for the American-born, London-based designer. Ives has built his reputation by reinterpreting American culture from a distance, combining vintage garments, deadstock materials and references drawn from everything from Hollywood glamour to everyday American archetypes. Bringing that perspective back to New York gave the collection a different energy, allowing the designer to confront the culture that has shaped so much of his work directly. The result continued Ives’ fascination with character, nostalgia and the contradictions of American style while demonstrating how far his label has developed beyond its emerging-designer beginnings. His NYFW debut also brought another distinctive independent voice to a schedule increasingly searching for a new generation of designers capable of defining American fashion.

PROENZA SCHOULER - RACHEL SCOTT SETTLES IN

Rachel Scott is continuing to establish her vision at Proenza Schouler, using the Spring 2027 collection to push the New York house into a more relaxed and expressive direction. Scott approaches the brand’s existing language with respect rather than nostalgia, balancing recognizable elements of Proenza’s history with softer silhouettes, stronger color and a greater sense of movement. The return of familiar house codes, including the PS1 bag, creates continuity while allowing the designer to gradually reshape the label around her own perspective. Rather than attempting an immediate reinvention, Scott appears to be building the next version of Proenza Schouler collection by collection. At a time when creative-director appointments often arrive with dramatic resets, the slower evolution feels increasingly distinctive.

SABYASACHI GOES GLOBAL

Sabyasachi Mukherjee is positioning his namesake company for a much larger international future as the Indian designer strengthens his presence in New York and pushes the idea of an Indian global luxury house. More than two decades after first showing in the city, Sabyasachi returns with a considerably different level of influence, having built a business around Indian craftsmanship, jewelry, textiles and an instantly recognizable visual universe. His international ambitions arrive at a moment when the geography of luxury is beginning to expand beyond its traditional European centers. Rather than adapting the house to resemble established Western luxury brands, Sabyasachi’s opportunity lies precisely in maintaining the cultural specificity that made it successful. The question is no longer whether Indian design can participate in global luxury, but whether a house rooted in India can become one of the companies defining its next era.

MONSE MAISON - A REBIRTH

Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia are beginning a new chapter for Monse with the introduction of Maison, expanding the label’s established language through a more elevated approach to construction and craft. The designers have long built Monse around disrupted classics, taking familiar garments and twisting, cutting or reconstructing them into something unexpected. Maison pushes that idea further through more intricate techniques and a greater emphasis on craftsmanship, bringing elements traditionally associated with couture into the brand’s unconventional world. The development arrives as Monse continues to mature beyond the immediate impact of its early collections and searches for ways to evolve without losing the tension that made the label recognizable. Instead of abandoning its identity for a complete reset, Kim and Garcia are using craftsmanship to give that identity a new level of depth.

This is Issue 32.

JULIE KEGELS WINS THE LVMH PRIZE

Belgian designer Julie Kegels has won the 2026 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, placing one of Europe’s most closely watched emerging talents firmly on the international stage. Kegels has developed a distinctive language around femininity, combining familiar ideas of glamour and elegance with unexpected proportions, layered styling and moments of deliberate discomfort. The award gives her label new financial support, mentorship and access to the LVMH network at a crucial stage of its development. Alongside Kegels, Zane Li of Lii received the Karl Lagerfeld Prize and Anil Padia of Yoshita 1967 won the Savoir-Faire Prize. Together, the winners point toward a new generation that values strong individual identities over a single dominant fashion aesthetic.

SABATO DE SARNO JOINS ICICLE

Former Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno is beginning an unexpected new chapter with Chinese fashion company Icicle. Rather than moving directly between Europe’s established luxury houses, De Sarno’s decision to look toward Shanghai reflects the increasingly global geography of contemporary fashion. Icicle has built its identity around understated clothing, natural materials and a restrained approach to luxury, creating an interesting environment for a designer known for precise tailoring and minimalist sensibilities. The appointment also represents something larger than a creative-director move. As Chinese fashion companies develop stronger identities and international ambitions, established European designers are beginning to look beyond the traditional luxury capitals for significant creative opportunities.

SIMONE ROCHA × ADIDAS

Simone Rocha is bringing her distinctive interpretation of femininity into sportswear through a new collaboration with Adidas. The partnership combines Rocha’s familiar language of lace, pearls, volume and romantic detailing with pieces rooted in athletic clothing and the Adidas archive. For Rocha, the connection is also personal, drawing on her experiences growing up in Dublin and wearing sportswear long before establishing her own fashion house. Rather than simply placing decorative elements onto existing sneakers and tracksuits, the collaboration explores the tension between performance clothing and the carefully constructed femininity that defines her work. It continues fashion’s growing relationship with sportswear while showing how recognizable brand codes can survive far beyond the traditional runway.

AARON ESH × ALLSAINTS

Aaron Esh is bringing his contemporary vision of London fashion to AllSaints with his first collection for the British retailer. Known for sharp tailoring, elongated silhouettes and an approach shaped by the people and nightlife surrounding him, Esh translates elements of his independent label into clothing designed for a much wider audience. The project sits between designer fashion and the high street, offering an example of how emerging creative voices can influence established commercial brands without abandoning their identity. Rather than treating accessibility as a compromise, the collection focuses on clothing intended to function in real life while retaining the attitude and proportion that made Esh one of London’s most closely watched young designers.

This is Issue 31.

UNIQLO U - END OF THE LEMAIRE ERA

After ten years, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are concluding their creative leadership of Uniqlo U, bringing an influential chapter in accessible design to an end. Since launching the line, the duo translated their approach to refined minimalism, thoughtful proportions and functional clothing into products available to a global audience. Uniqlo U demonstrated that sophisticated design principles did not have to remain exclusive to luxury fashion, helping elevate everyday essentials through material, construction and silhouette. Their final Fall Winter 2026 collection closes a decade-long collaboration that quietly influenced the wider industry and changed expectations around what mass-market clothing could look and feel like.

CHOPOVA LOWENA - FIRST STORE

Chopova Lowena has opened its first permanent store in London’s Bethnal Green, marking a major milestone for the independent label founded by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena. Rather than creating a conventional luxury boutique, the designers have approached the space as an extension of the eclectic world surrounding the brand, combining retail with a stronger sense of community and culture. The opening reflects Chopova Lowena’s evolution from an emerging London label into an internationally recognised name while maintaining the experimental identity that built its following. At a moment when independent designers face increasing commercial pressure, establishing a physical home represents both an ambitious step forward and a commitment to London’s creative scene.

VOGUE’S NEW GLOBAL DESIGNERS

Vogue’s latest global selection of emerging designers highlights a new generation building fashion beyond the industry’s traditional centers. Among the names are Paris-based Anthony Calydon, Berlin’s Lou de Bètoly, Seoul’s Post Archive Faction, Brazilian label Misci and Shanghai-based Shushu/Tong. Slovenian designer Tanja Vidic also stands out for her experimental knitwear, recently contributing 20 knitted looks to Rick Owens’ Hollywood collection. Across different countries, these designers combine local identity, craftsmanship and increasingly distinct approaches to contemporary fashion. Rather than following one global aesthetic, the selection reflects an industry becoming more decentralized, where regional culture and independent communities can become an advantage. Fashion’s next generation is no longer emerging from only Paris, Milan, London and New York.

GUCCI - PRIMAVERA

Gucci continues to expand its cultural universe with Primavera, a campaign bringing together an unusually diverse cast from music, sport and entertainment. Figures including Jin, EsDeeKid, Rico Nasty, Shawn Mendes and Tom Brady place global celebrity alongside younger voices from underground culture, creating deliberate contrasts between different audiences and creative scenes. Rather than relying on a single face to define the house, the campaign presents Gucci as a meeting point for multiple forms of contemporary culture. The approach reflects the increasing importance of community, music and personality in luxury communication, while demonstrating how a global fashion house can move between mainstream recognition and emerging cultural influence within the same visual world.

This is Issue 30.

SUPREME - END OF AN ERA

Supreme enters another period of transition as Chief Creative Officer Erin Magee steps down after more than two decades with the New York streetwear institution. Magee joined Supreme in 2004 and became an important figure behind the brand’s visual identity as it evolved from an independent skate label into one of the world’s most influential streetwear businesses. Her departure follows several major changes within the company in recent years and raises new questions about Supreme’s future creative direction. At a moment when streetwear itself is being redefined, the exit represents more than another leadership change. One of the defining brands of modern fashion is entering a new chapter without one of the people who helped shape its rise.

LUXURY’S NEW RESALE ERA

The luxury resale market is evolving as a new generation of consumers approaches archival fashion with increasingly specific knowledge. Shoppers are no longer searching only for major designer names, but for particular seasons, creative directors, runway collections and individual pieces. This growing level of fashion literacy is transforming vintage clothing from a secondary market into an important part of contemporary luxury culture. Archive pieces now influence new purchases, styling and even the way current collections are understood. As access to runway history continues to expand online, knowledge itself is becoming a form of value. The result is a new collector culture where provenance, rarity and context can matter as much as the logo attached to a garment.

REESE COOPER - RC OUTDOOR SUPPLY

Reese Cooper is expanding his world beyond the traditional fashion model with the opening of the first physical RC Outdoor Supply store in Silver Lake, Los Angeles. Developed together with PlayLab, the permanent space brings the designer’s technical outerwear, outdoor equipment and RCI footwear into a dedicated environment for the first time. The project reflects Cooper’s continued movement between fashion, functionality and outdoor culture while giving the independent label a physical connection to its community. At a time when many brands remain focused on digital growth, RC Outdoor Supply demonstrates the renewed importance of distinctive retail spaces. Rather than functioning simply as a store, the location extends the identity of Reese Cooper into a complete physical experience.

This is Issue 29.

SSON - THE RESORT

SSON turned the climate crisis into the central narrative of its latest collection, using fashion to confront the increasingly uncomfortable reality behind the idea of a perfect summer escape. Designer Yulia Kjellsson combined resort-inspired silhouettes with upcycled materials, contrasting beauty and optimism with references to extreme heat, pollution and environmental decline. Rather than treating sustainability as a marketing concept, the collection made it visible through both its construction and storytelling. The result offered a more direct perspective on responsible fashion while maintaining the playful energy of the brand. SSON demonstrated how a younger generation of designers is using the runway not only to present clothing, but also to address the world surrounding it.

FASHION BETS ON BALLET

Fashion’s relationship with ballet is entering a new phase as luxury houses and designers increasingly move beyond aesthetic references and build direct connections with dance institutions. Chanel continues its long-standing support of ballet, while designers including Paul Smith and Saul Nash are exploring costume, performance and movement through new creative projects. The renewed interest reflects a wider cultural fascination with ballet among younger audiences, but also fashion’s growing desire to participate in disciplines beyond the traditional runway. From craftsmanship and physical movement to storytelling and performance, the two worlds share an increasingly natural connection. Ballet is becoming more than another seasonal trend, developing into a wider cultural space for fashion to explore.

AI BECOMES FASHION’S NEW IT GIRL

Artificial intelligence is becoming increasingly intertwined with fashion culture as technology companies adopt the visual language of luxury, influencers and aspirational lifestyles. Rather than presenting AI purely as a technical tool, companies are using fashion imagery and cultural figures to make the technology feel desirable and socially relevant. The strategy reflects a larger shift in how AI is being introduced to consumers, moving from functionality toward identity and aspiration. At the same time, the relationship raises questions around authenticity, creativity and who controls the images shaping contemporary culture. As fashion continues experimenting with artificial intelligence, the technology is rapidly moving from behind the scenes into the center of the industry’s cultural conversation.

RAINS - NEW CEO

Danish fashion brand Rains enters its next phase of growth with Tom Bettinson taking over as CEO, while co-founder Daniel Brix Hesselager moves into a business development role. The leadership change comes as Rains continues expanding beyond its origins in functional rainwear into a broader international lifestyle and fashion business. With an increasingly global retail presence and stronger positioning within contemporary fashion, the company is now focusing on commercial execution and its next stage of expansion. The transition reflects the evolution of Rains from a Scandinavian outerwear specialist into an internationally recognized brand, while allowing its founding leadership to focus on new opportunities and long-term development.

This is Issue 28.

COLLINA STRADA TAKES COPENHAGEN

Collina Strada brought New York energy to Copenhagen Fashion Week as the first international brand invited into the official guest slot. Hillary Taymour adapted her expressive design language to Copenhagen’s strict sustainability requirements, creating the collection entirely from deadstock materials. The result combined playful silhouettes, bold styling and experimental craftsmanship without losing the environmental principles that have long defined the brand. More than a single runway moment, Collina Strada’s presence reflected Copenhagen Fashion Week’s growing international influence. What began as a primarily Scandinavian platform is increasingly positioning itself as an alternative global fashion destination where creativity and responsible production can exist together.

MFPEN - 10 YEARS

Copenhagen-based mfpen marked its tenth anniversary with a collection that demonstrated how far the independent label has evolved. Known for understated tailoring, unconventional proportions and its reinterpretation of familiar wardrobe staples, the brand has developed a distinctive identity within contemporary European menswear. The anniversary represented both a reflection on its first decade and a statement about what comes next. As Copenhagen’s fashion scene becomes increasingly international, mfpen remains an important example of a local independent brand building global relevance without abandoning the restrained and considered approach that originally defined it.

PAOLINA RUSSO

Paolina Russo emerged as one of the week’s important international voices, bringing an experimental combination of traditional craft, technology and youth culture to Copenhagen. The label’s distinctive approach transforms techniques associated with knitwear and handmade production through contemporary silhouettes and digital influences. In a schedule increasingly open to designers from outside Scandinavia, the presentation demonstrated Copenhagen’s growing role as a platform for independent fashion beyond its local scene. Russo’s work also reflected a broader movement among younger designers who are challenging the separation between traditional craftsmanship and technological innovation, using both as tools to build a new visual language.

COPENHAGEN LEAVES MINIMALISM BEHIND

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27 challenged the idea that Scandinavian fashion is defined exclusively by restraint and minimalism. Across the week’s collections, designers embraced stronger colors, lace, layered textures and more expressive styling, creating a noticeably more individualistic season. The shift did not represent a complete rejection of Scandinavian design principles, but rather an expansion of what they can represent. Practicality and thoughtful construction remained important while designers became increasingly comfortable with decoration and experimentation. As Copenhagen celebrates twenty years of its fashion week, SS27 suggested that its next chapter may be defined less by a single recognizable aesthetic and more by the diversity of the designers participating in it.

This is Issue 27.

JOHN GALLIANO – MET EXHIBITION

The Metropolitan Museum of Art has announced a major exhibition dedicated to John Galliano, celebrating one of fashion’s most influential and visionary designers. Spanning decades of groundbreaking work, the exhibition will explore Galliano’s extraordinary impact on haute couture, theatrical storytelling and contemporary fashion. From his early collections to his defining years at Givenchy, Dior and Maison Margiela, the retrospective highlights a career that continuously challenged the boundaries between fashion, art and performance. More than a celebration of individual collections, the exhibition recognizes Galliano’s lasting influence on modern design and reinforces his position as one of the most important creative figures in fashion history.

ASHI STUDIO RISES

Ashi Studio continues its remarkable rise as one of haute couture’s most exciting independent houses. Known for sculptural silhouettes, architectural construction and exceptional craftsmanship, the brand has become a regular presence on international red carpets while gaining increasing recognition from editors, stylists and celebrities alike. Recent collections have demonstrated a unique ability to combine dramatic couture techniques with contemporary elegance, positioning Ashi Studio among the most closely watched names in luxury fashion. As demand for original couture continues to grow, the house is establishing itself as a significant force shaping the future of the industry.

CHRISTINE CENTERNERA × H&M

H&M has partnered with renowned fashion editor and creative consultant Christine Centenera for a capsule collection inspired by her signature approach to modern dressing. Recognised for her minimalist wardrobe, sharp tailoring and influential editorial work, Centenera brings a refined perspective to accessible fashion. The collection focuses on elevated essentials, clean silhouettes and timeless wardrobe pieces designed to transcend seasonal trends. Rather than following fast-moving fashion cycles, the collaboration emphasises longevity, versatility and thoughtful design. It reflects the growing demand for premium everyday clothing while continuing H&M’s tradition of collaborating with leading creative figures from across the fashion industry.

SUMMER POP-UPS TAKE OVER

Luxury brands continue expanding beyond traditional retail through an increasing number of destination pop-ups and immersive seasonal experiences. From Mediterranean beach clubs to coastal resorts and exclusive holiday locations, fashion houses are creating temporary spaces that combine retail, hospitality and lifestyle. Brands such as Jacquemus, Dior, Gucci and Burberry are investing in environments that allow customers to experience their identity beyond the product itself. These activations include cafés, curated boutiques, branded beaches and cultural events, reflecting a broader shift toward experiential luxury. As consumer expectations evolve, the ability to create memorable physical experiences has become just as important as presenting a new collection.

This is Issue 26.

BURBERRY – DANIEL LEE

Burberry continued its transformation under Daniel Lee with a collection that further refined the house’s modern identity. Drawing inspiration from British heritage, the runway balanced traditional tailoring with contemporary silhouettes and functional outerwear. Rich textures, earthy tones and elevated craftsmanship reinforced Burberry’s position as one of London’s defining luxury brands. The collection reflected Lee’s growing confidence at the house while demonstrating a clear vision for the future. As one of the week’s headline shows, Burberry once again set the benchmark for British luxury on the international stage.

ERDEM – 20 YEARS

Erdem celebrated two decades of design with a collection that looked back on the brand’s history while embracing its future. Romantic silhouettes, intricate embroidery and exceptional craftsmanship remained at the heart of the presentation, highlighting the signature aesthetic that has defined the house since its founding. Rather than relying on nostalgia, the collection reinterpreted familiar codes through a contemporary lens, demonstrating the continued evolution of the brand. The anniversary show stood out as one of London Fashion Week’s most elegant and emotionally resonant presentations.

S.S. DALEY

S.S. Daley further established himself as one of Britain’s most exciting young designers with a collection that blended classic tailoring, cultural storytelling and modern craftsmanship. Known for reimagining traditional British dress through a fresh and youthful perspective, Steven Stokey-Daley delivered a presentation that felt both personal and sophisticated. The collection explored identity, heritage and contemporary masculinity while maintaining the refined construction that has become synonymous with the label. Following years of growing international recognition, S.S. Daley continues to shape the future of British fashion and remains one of the industry’s most closely watched emerging talents.

SIMONE ROCHA

Simone Rocha once again demonstrated why she remains one of London’s most distinctive creative voices. Her latest collection expanded on the romantic aesthetic that has defined the brand while introducing sharper tailoring and sculptural silhouettes. Delicate embellishments, layered textures and signature pearl details were combined with a stronger sense of structure, creating a compelling balance between softness and strength. The presentation highlighted Rocha’s ability to evolve her visual language without losing its unmistakable identity, securing another standout moment during London Fashion Week.

This is Issue 25.

RABANNE – OLIVIER ROUSTEING

Fashion’s latest creative shake-up sees Olivier Rousteing take the helm at Rabanne, marking one of the industry’s biggest appointments of the year. After more than a decade of defining Balmain through bold silhouettes and strong cultural influence, Rousteing now faces the challenge of reinterpreting Rabanne’s iconic heritage. Known for its futuristic aesthetic and innovative use of metal, the French house offers a new creative playground that aligns with Rousteing’s theatrical vision. The appointment signals another major shift within luxury fashion as brands continue redefining their identities through a new generation of creative leadership.

HERMÈS ENTERS HAUTE COUTURE

Hermès is preparing to expand its presence into haute couture, a move that reflects the growing demand for exceptional craftsmanship and ultra-exclusive luxury. Already regarded as one of the world’s leading maisons for leather goods and ready-to-wear, the brand’s potential couture offering would represent a significant milestone in its history. With its reputation for timeless design, artisanal excellence and limited production, Hermès is uniquely positioned to bring a quieter and more refined perspective to the couture landscape. The announcement has immediately become one of the most closely watched developments in the luxury industry.

BALENCIAGA’S NEW DIRECTION

Following Pierpaolo Piccioli’s acclaimed couture debut, Balenciaga enters a new creative era defined by elegance, emotion and exceptional craftsmanship. Rather than relying on provocation, the collection focused on refined tailoring, sculptural silhouettes and a renewed appreciation for couture techniques. The presentation demonstrated that Balenciaga can evolve while remaining connected to the architectural principles established by Cristóbal Balenciaga. With strong critical reception from editors and buyers alike, the collection has positioned the house for an exciting new chapter as the fashion industry looks toward the upcoming ready-to-wear season.

LONDON FASHION WEEK SS27

With Paris Haute Couture Week concluded, attention now shifts to London Fashion Week as the international fashion calendar continues toward the Spring Summer 2027 season. The newly released schedule highlights a strong mix of established British fashion houses and emerging independent designers, reinforcing London’s reputation as a platform for experimentation and new talent. The week is expected to showcase innovative approaches to sustainability, craftsmanship and contemporary design while introducing the next generation of influential creatives. As the industry moves forward, London once again becomes an important stage for shaping the future of global fashion.

This is Issue 24.

BALENCIAGA - PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI

Pierpaolo Piccioli officially began a new chapter at Balenciaga with one of the most anticipated couture debuts in recent years. Rather than attempting to replicate the house’s past, Piccioli introduced a softer and more emotional interpretation of Balenciaga’s architectural heritage. Sculptural silhouettes, exceptional craftsmanship and refined elegance defined a collection that balanced innovation with tradition. The presentation demonstrated a deep respect for Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy while establishing a distinct creative direction for the future. Widely praised by critics and editors, the debut became one of the defining moments of Paris Haute Couture Week and confirmed Piccioli as one of the industry’s most influential creative leaders.

SCHIAPARELLI - DANIEL ROSEBERRY

Daniel Roseberry once again pushed the boundaries of haute couture with a collection that blurred the line between fashion, sculpture and contemporary art. Combining extraordinary craftsmanship with surreal silhouettes and unexpected materials, the presentation explored themes of illusion, fantasy and transformation. Every garment demonstrated the technical precision that has become synonymous with Schiaparelli under Roseberry’s direction while continuing to challenge conventional ideas of couture. The show was widely regarded as one of the week’s creative highlights, reinforcing Schiaparelli’s position as one of the most innovative houses in modern fashion.

MAISON MARGIELA - GLENN MARTENS

Maison Margiela entered a new era as Glenn Martens presented his first Artisanal collection for the house. Known for his experimental approach to construction and deconstruction, Martens delivered a collection that respected Margiela’s revolutionary legacy while introducing his own contemporary perspective. Dramatic silhouettes, intricate craftsmanship and innovative garment construction defined the presentation, creating one of the most discussed collections of the season. The debut successfully balanced heritage with evolution, offering a confident vision for the future of one of fashion’s most influential maisons.

ROBERT WUN

Robert Wun continued his remarkable rise with a couture collection that combined technical excellence with cinematic storytelling. Every look was conceived as part of a larger narrative, transforming the runway into an emotional journey rather than a traditional fashion presentation. Sculptural silhouettes, exceptional craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail highlighted the designer’s ability to merge fantasy with precision. As couture continues to embrace new creative voices, Wun’s presentation stood out as one of the week’s most original and visually compelling collections. The show further established him as one of the most exciting talents shaping the future of haute couture.

This is Issue 23.

BALENCIAGA - PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI

Haute Couture Week begins with one of the industry’s most anticipated moments as Pierpaolo Piccioli prepares to unveil his first couture collection for Balenciaga. After redefining modern couture during his years at Valentino, Piccioli now takes the creative lead at one of fashion’s most influential maisons. His debut is expected to balance Cristóbal Balenciaga’s architectural heritage with a softer and more emotional approach to couture. As creative transitions continue to reshape luxury fashion, all eyes are on Paris to see how Piccioli will define the next chapter of Balenciaga.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER - DURAN LANTINK

Dutch designer Duran Lantink makes his highly anticipated couture debut for Jean Paul Gaultier, continuing the house’s tradition of inviting visionary designers to reinterpret its legacy. Known for sculptural silhouettes, bold experimentation and sustainable design practices, Lantink brings a contemporary perspective to one of fashion’s most iconic brands. His appointment reflects couture’s growing openness to younger creative voices while reinforcing Paris as the center of innovation. The presentation is expected to be one of the defining moments of the week.

MAISON MARGIELA - GLENN MARTENS

Maison Margiela enters a new era as Glenn Martens prepares to present his first Artisanal collection for the house. Following years of critical acclaim at Y/Project and Diesel, Martens now faces the challenge of continuing one of fashion’s most influential creative legacies. His approach combines technical innovation, deconstruction and craftsmanship, making his debut one of the most anticipated presentations of the season. The collection will offer the first insight into how Martens plans to reinterpret Margiela’s iconic language for a new generation.

SCHIAPARELLI - DANIEL ROSEBERRY

Daniel Roseberry continues to redefine contemporary couture at Schiaparelli through collections that blur the boundaries between fashion, sculpture and surrealism. His work has become synonymous with bold silhouettes, extraordinary craftsmanship and theatrical imagination, attracting attention far beyond the traditional couture audience. Each presentation pushes the limits of haute couture while remaining rooted in the house’s artistic heritage. As Couture Week opens, Schiaparelli once again sets the tone for creativity and innovation in Paris.

IRIS VAN HERPEN

Iris van Herpen returns to Paris with another collection exploring the intersection of couture, technology and nature. Renowned for combining advanced fabrication techniques with exceptional craftsmanship, the Dutch designer continues to challenge conventional ideas of fashion. Her work often incorporates movement, biomimicry and scientific research, resulting in garments that feel both futuristic and timeless. As one of couture’s most innovative voices, Van Herpen remains at the forefront of experimental design while expanding the possibilities of what haute couture can become.

CHANEL - BETWEEN ERAS

Chanel arrives in Paris during a significant period of transition as the house continues preparing for its next creative chapter. While maintaining its signature codes of elegance, craftsmanship and timeless sophistication, the maison remains one of the most closely watched names throughout Couture Week. Every collection carries the weight of Chanel’s extraordinary heritage while offering subtle indications of the direction ahead. As anticipation continues to build around the brand’s future, Paris once again turns its attention to one of fashion’s most enduring institutions.

ARMANI PRIVÉ - 20 YEARS

Giorgio Armani celebrates twenty years of Armani Privé, marking an important milestone in contemporary haute couture. Since its launch, the line has become synonymous with refined elegance, exceptional tailoring and understated luxury. Rather than following seasonal trends, Armani has consistently focused on timeless silhouettes and impeccable craftsmanship, earning lasting respect within the couture world. The anniversary collection celebrates two decades of Italian excellence while reaffirming the enduring relevance of quiet sophistication in modern fashion.

This is Issue 22.

CELINE - MICHAEL RIDER

One of the most anticipated moments of Paris Fashion Week came with Michael Rider’s first menswear collection for Celine. Tasked with leading one of luxury fashion’s most influential houses, Rider introduced a vision that balanced the brand’s refined heritage with a more relaxed and contemporary approach. Soft tailoring, understated luxury and effortless silhouettes defined the collection, marking a clear transition into Celine’s next chapter. Rather than attempting to recreate the past, Rider established a fresh direction while respecting the codes that made the house globally influential. The debut immediately became one of the week’s most discussed presentations and signaled the beginning of a new era for the French fashion house.

DIOR - JONATHAN ANDERSON

Jonathan Anderson continued shaping his vision for Dior with one of the most closely watched shows of the season. Instead of relying on spectacle, the collection explored proportion, craftsmanship and a modern interpretation of Dior’s historic identity. Tailoring remained central, while softer silhouettes and subtle detailing reflected Anderson’s distinctive design language. Following months of anticipation, the presentation demonstrated growing confidence and a clearer understanding of how his creative vision can coexist with one of fashion’s most iconic maisons. Widely praised by critics and industry insiders, the show confirmed Dior as one of the defining moments of Paris Fashion Week.

SAINT LAURENT - ANTHONY VACCARELLO

Anthony Vaccarello delivered one of the strongest collections of the week, reinforcing Saint Laurent’s position at the forefront of contemporary luxury menswear. Presented in a dramatic setting, the collection combined sharp tailoring with fluid fabrics, transparent layers and elegant evening silhouettes. Rather than chasing trends, Vaccarello focused on refinement, confidence and timeless sophistication, continuing to evolve the house’s unmistakable identity. The balance between sensuality and precision resonated strongly with editors and buyers, making the presentation one of the season’s critical highlights. Once again, Saint Laurent demonstrated why it remains one of Paris Fashion Week’s most consistently influential brands.

WILLY CHAVARRIA

Willy Chavarria once again delivered one of the most powerful collections of Paris Fashion Week, combining exceptional tailoring with deeply personal storytelling. His presentation continued to explore themes of identity, community and social commentary while maintaining the oversized silhouettes and precise construction that have become synonymous with the brand. Rather than separating fashion from culture, Chavarria used the runway as a platform for dialogue, proving that contemporary menswear can be both visually compelling and culturally significant. The collection further cemented his reputation as one of the industry’s most important creative voices.

RICK OWENS

Rick Owens presented another unforgettable show, staying true to the uncompromising vision that has defined his career. Monumental silhouettes, architectural proportions and a dramatic runway atmosphere once again blurred the line between fashion and performance art. While remaining unmistakably Rick Owens, the collection introduced subtle evolutions in tailoring and construction that demonstrated the brand’s constant progression. As one of the most photographed and discussed presentations of the week, the show reaffirmed Owens’ position as one of Paris Fashion Week’s most influential independent designers.

HED MAYNER

Hed Mayner continued refining his distinctive approach to oversized tailoring with a collection that balanced volume, precision and restraint. Relaxed proportions, sculptural outerwear and carefully constructed silhouettes created garments that felt both contemporary and timeless. Rather than following seasonal trends, the Israeli designer remained focused on craftsmanship and functionality, further establishing his reputation as one of menswear’s most respected independent talents. The collection received widespread praise from editors for its quiet confidence and exceptional execution.

JUNYA WATANABE

Junya Watanabe once again demonstrated his ability to merge technical innovation with classic menswear references. The collection explored intricate construction techniques, utilitarian influences and unexpected fabric combinations while maintaining the precision that has defined the Japanese designer’s work for decades. Every look reflected meticulous craftsmanship and an experimental spirit that continues to distinguish Junya Watanabe from the rest of the Paris calendar. The presentation reinforced the importance of technical excellence within contemporary fashion.

SONGZIO

Songzio delivered one of the strongest collections among the independent labels in Paris. Known for combining artistic expression with dark tailoring and sculptural silhouettes, the Korean house continued to refine its unique visual identity. Dramatic layering, painterly textures and precise construction created a collection that felt both emotional and highly sophisticated. As global interest in Korean fashion continues to grow, Songzio further strengthened its position as one of the leading names shaping modern menswear.

SACAI

Sacai presented another highly praised collection built around Chitose Abe’s signature hybrid design language. Tailoring merged seamlessly with sportswear, technical fabrics met traditional construction and familiar garments were transformed through innovative layering. Rather than reinventing its identity, Sacai continued evolving a design philosophy that has consistently influenced contemporary fashion. The collection highlighted the brand’s ability to balance creativity with wearability while remaining one of the industry’s most respected innovators.

KIKO KOSTADINOV

Kiko Kostadinov once again pushed the boundaries of contemporary menswear through experimental tailoring and advanced garment construction. Technical fabrics, unconventional proportions and architectural silhouettes defined a collection that challenged traditional ideas of luxury clothing. While remaining highly conceptual, the presentation demonstrated remarkable attention to craftsmanship and functionality. Editors and buyers praised the collection for its originality, further cementing Kostadinov’s reputation as one of fashion’s most forward-thinking designers.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Yohji Yamamoto delivered another deeply poetic collection centered around timeless tailoring, exceptional craftsmanship and understated elegance. Rather than responding to short-term trends, the Japanese designer remained committed to creating garments with longevity and emotional depth. Flowing silhouettes, monochromatic palettes and meticulous construction reflected a philosophy that values permanence over novelty. In a season driven by creative transitions, Yohji once again reminded the industry of the enduring power of authentic design.

COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus continued challenging conventional menswear through conceptual design and sculptural silhouettes. Rei Kawakubo presented a collection that questioned traditional ideas of tailoring, proportion and form while embracing theatrical styling and artistic experimentation. More than simply presenting clothing, the show invited audiences to reconsider the possibilities of fashion itself. Once again, the house demonstrated why it remains one of the most influential creative forces in contemporary design.

LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI

Louis Gabriel Nouchi continued his impressive rise with another confident presentation built around sensual tailoring and understated minimalism. Clean silhouettes, fluid construction and a strong emphasis on modern masculinity defined the collection, further distinguishing LGN from many of the week’s emerging labels. With each season, the Paris-based designer strengthens his position as one of France’s most promising contemporary voices, earning growing recognition from buyers, editors and the international fashion community.

KENZO

Kenzo expanded the traditional fashion week format by transforming Place des Victoires into a week-long cultural destination. Alongside the runway presentation, the brand introduced cafés, markets, exhibitions and community spaces that invited the public into the world of Kenzo. The initiative reflected a growing industry shift toward immersive brand experiences that extend beyond seasonal collections. By combining fashion, culture and public engagement, Kenzo demonstrated how luxury brands increasingly build communities rather than simply presenting products.

SOLID HOMME

Solid Homme delivered one of the cleanest tailoring collections of the season, reinforcing South Korea’s growing influence within global menswear. Relaxed silhouettes, refined proportions and understated styling created a collection built around precision rather than spectacle. The presentation reflected the brand’s consistent commitment to craftsmanship and timeless design while further establishing Solid Homme as one of the strongest voices emerging from the Korean fashion scene.

LEMAIRE

Lemaire once again proved that quiet luxury remains one of the strongest directions in contemporary fashion. Relaxed tailoring, exceptional fabric selection and understated styling defined a collection that prioritized longevity over seasonal trends. Every look reflected the brand’s commitment to timeless elegance and effortless sophistication. In a week filled with high-profile debuts and theatrical presentations, Lemaire stood out through confidence, restraint and impeccable execution.

HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake continued exploring innovation through movement, lightweight construction and the brand’s signature pleating techniques. The collection celebrated functionality without sacrificing creativity, presenting garments designed to move naturally with the body while maintaining their sculptural form. Combining technical research with minimalist aesthetics, the presentation once again demonstrated why Homme Plissé remains one of the most influential names in contemporary menswear.

This is Issue 21.

PRADA - CLARITY

Prada delivered one of the most discussed collections of Milan Fashion Week with its Spring/Summer 2027 presentation titled Clarity. Rather than embracing spectacle or complexity, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons focused on reduction, purpose and simplicity. Clean silhouettes, lightweight tailoring and restrained styling defined the collection, offering a vision of luxury built around longevity rather than excess. The show reflected a growing desire for clothing that feels relevant beyond a single season while challenging the industry’s recent obsession with constant novelty. In a moment where fashion often competes for attention through scale and noise, Prada proposed a quieter alternative. The collection reinforced the house’s influence while helping shape the conversation around the future direction of menswear.

GUCCI OPENS PALAZZO GUCCI

Gucci expanded its cultural presence in Florence with the opening of Palazzo Gucci, a new destination dedicated to the brand’s history, identity and future ambitions. Located in the city where Gucci was founded, the space combines archival storytelling, exhibitions and contemporary brand experiences under one roof. The opening arrives at a significant moment for the house as attention continues to build around its next chapter under Demna. More than a retail project, Palazzo Gucci represents an investment in cultural positioning and long-term brand building. By connecting heritage with contemporary relevance, Gucci continues to strengthen its role beyond fashion while creating a physical landmark that celebrates both its past and future.

SIMONE ROCHA DEBUTS AT PITTI UOMO

One of the most anticipated moments of the menswear season came from Simone Rocha, who presented her first dedicated menswear runway show at Pitti Uomo in Florence. Known for blending romanticism, craftsmanship and unconventional proportions, Rocha brought her distinctive visual language to a new audience while expanding the scope of her brand. The presentation demonstrated how contemporary menswear continues to evolve beyond traditional definitions, embracing softness, decoration and emotional expression alongside tailoring and structure. As the industry searches for new perspectives, Rocha’s debut stood out as one of the most significant presentations of the week. The show marked an important milestone for the designer while highlighting the increasingly fluid boundaries shaping modern fashion.

THE BIG DEBUTS

Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 will be defined by a series of highly anticipated debuts. Michael Rider is set to present his first menswear collection for Celine, marking the beginning of a new chapter for one of fashion’s most influential houses. Sarah Burton will unveil her first menswear collection for Givenchy, expanding her vision beyond womenswear and into a category that remains central to the Paris calendar. At the same time, Meryll Rogge prepares to present the first menswear collection under her own label following her appointment as Creative Director of Marni. Together, these debuts represent more than new collections. They offer the first real indication of how several important creative transitions may shape the future of luxury fashion.

KENZO BUILDS A WORLD

Rather than focusing solely on a runway presentation, Kenzo is transforming Place des Victoires into a week-long public experience during Paris Fashion Week. The activation includes a showroom, coffee shop, market, flower shop and a series of brand-led cultural initiatives designed to bring visitors directly into the world of the house. The project reflects a broader industry movement in which fashion brands increasingly operate as cultural platforms rather than product-driven businesses. As consumers seek deeper engagement and community, labels are investing in experiences that extend beyond the runway. Kenzo’s approach demonstrates how fashion continues to evolve from seasonal presentations into immersive environments that combine retail, hospitality, culture and storytelling.

EMERGING MOMENTUM

Several emerging and evolving names are entering Paris Fashion Week with significant momentum. Soshiotsuki joins the official Paris calendar following international recognition and growing attention from buyers and editors worldwide. Feng Chen Wang continues to strengthen her position as one of the most closely watched voices in contemporary menswear, building a global audience through her distinctive approach to design and construction. Meanwhile, Peter Copping prepares his first standalone menswear presentation for Lanvin on the official schedule, marking an important step in the house’s ongoing evolution. Together, these developments highlight a season shaped not only by major luxury brands, but also by a new generation of designers redefining the future of menswear.

This is Issue 20.

KIDSUPER LEAVES PARIS

One of the biggest surprises ahead of the Spring/Summer 2027 menswear season comes from KidSuper. After becoming a regular highlight of Paris Fashion Week in recent years, founder Colm Dillane has decided to move the brand’s next presentation from Paris to Miami. The show will take place during the FIFA World Cup and aims to combine fashion, football, music and cultural exchange within a single event. Rather than following the traditional fashion week model, KidSuper is positioning itself within a much larger global conversation. The decision reflects a broader shift across the industry, where brands increasingly seek audiences beyond the established fashion capitals. While the move represents a temporary departure from Paris, KidSuper has already confirmed its return next season. The project demonstrates how independent brands continue to challenge traditional formats while expanding fashion’s role within global culture.

BAPE x KIDSUPER

Bape and KidSuper have unveiled one of the most ambitious collaborative projects of the year. Created around the upcoming FIFA World Cup, the partnership introduces 48 individual Bape Sta sneakers, each representing one of the participating nations. Instead of focusing on a single hero product, the collection transforms every country into its own unique design, creating a project that sits somewhere between sports merchandise, collectible design and contemporary fashion. The collaboration further strengthens the relationship between football culture and the fashion industry, a connection that has become increasingly visible in recent years. By combining Bape’s established sneaker heritage with KidSuper’s playful and community-driven approach, the release expands beyond footwear and becomes a larger cultural statement about identity, representation and global participation.

PITTI UOMO RETURNS

The arrival of Pitti Uomo officially marks the beginning of another menswear season. As buyers, editors, designers and industry professionals gather in Florence, attention turns toward the first major event of the Spring/Summer 2027 calendar. Known for its unique combination of established luxury houses, emerging designers and influential street style, Pitti Uomo remains one of the most important platforms within menswear. This season brings renewed interest as the industry enters a period of transition shaped by creative director changes, evolving consumer behaviour and shifting market conditions. Beyond the collections themselves, the event serves as an early indicator of broader movements within fashion. The conversations, presentations and emerging talents showcased in Florence often help define the direction of the season long before the major runway shows begin in Milan and Paris.

FRASERS TARGETS HUGO BOSS

The luxury and retail sectors received significant attention this week following reports that Frasers Group is exploring a potential takeover offer for Hugo Boss. News of the proposal immediately impacted financial markets and renewed discussions about consolidation within the fashion industry. Hugo Boss has spent recent years rebuilding its position through product development, marketing investments and a renewed focus on global growth. At the same time, Frasers continues to expand its influence across retail and luxury through strategic acquisitions and investments. While the future outcome remains uncertain, the situation highlights the increasing importance of scale, ownership and financial power within the modern fashion landscape. Beyond design and creativity, the industry is increasingly shaped by corporate strategy, investment activity and long-term business positioning.

This is Issue 19.

PRADA x NASA

Prada’s collaboration with NASA and Axiom Space became one of the most unexpected fashion stories of the year. While luxury brands have long explored technology and innovation, this partnership moves beyond symbolism and into real-world application. Prada contributed to the development of the next-generation lunar spacesuit that will be used during future Artemis missions, marking a rare moment where fashion enters a field traditionally dominated by engineering and aerospace research. The project highlights how luxury brands increasingly seek relevance beyond clothing, positioning themselves within conversations around science, design, and the future. More importantly, it demonstrates how fashion can influence functionality at the highest level. What began as a luxury house in Milan is now participating in the next chapter of space exploration.

CARVEN - KAI NESSELRATH

Carven announced Kai Nesselrath as its new Design Director, opening another chapter in the ongoing reshuffling of luxury fashion. Having previously worked within the Saint Laurent system, Nesselrath arrives with strong experience in contemporary tailoring and modern luxury. His appointment follows Carven’s recent efforts to rebuild its identity and reconnect with a younger audience while maintaining the house’s historic foundations. In an industry currently defined by creative transitions, the success of a brand increasingly depends on balancing heritage with relevance. Carven remains one of the most closely watched revival projects in Paris, and Nesselrath’s arrival signals a continued commitment to long-term development rather than short-term attention. His first collections will likely determine how the brand positions itself within the next generation of French fashion.

KARTIK RESEARCH

Kartik Research became an unexpected talking point across the menswear community after postponing its upcoming Paris presentation. While schedule changes are not uncommon within fashion, the response revealed something larger than a simple calendar adjustment. Designers, editors, buyers, and supporters responded with visible encouragement, highlighting the strong community that has formed around the independent Indian label. The conversation shifted away from product releases and toward the realities of building a fashion brand in an increasingly demanding industry. Kartik Research has developed a reputation for combining traditional craftsmanship, textile research, and contemporary design, earning respect far beyond its size. The reaction to the postponement demonstrated that fashion audiences are increasingly interested not only in collections, but also in the people and processes behind them. In a season dominated by major luxury houses, the story served as a reminder that independent brands continue to shape some of the industry’s most meaningful conversations.