MAGAZIN
INTRODUCTION
Theycallme Magazin is our weekly editorial format for fashion news and industry analysis.
Every Monday, we publish a distilled view on what’s relevant now - from runway statements and off-schedule signals to deeper shifts in aesthetics, production, and creative direction. Grounded in physical presence, analog imagery, and editorial precision. Not trend-focused - relevance-focused.
This is Issue 32.
JULIE KEGELS WINS THE LVMH PRIZE
Belgian designer Julie Kegels has won the 2026 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, placing one of Europe’s most closely watched emerging talents firmly on the international stage. Kegels has developed a distinctive language around femininity, combining familiar ideas of glamour and elegance with unexpected proportions, layered styling and moments of deliberate discomfort. The award gives her label new financial support, mentorship and access to the LVMH network at a crucial stage of its development. Alongside Kegels, Zane Li of Lii received the Karl Lagerfeld Prize and Anil Padia of Yoshita 1967 won the Savoir-Faire Prize. Together, the winners point toward a new generation that values strong individual identities over a single dominant fashion aesthetic.
SABATO DE SARNO JOINS ICICLE
Former Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno is beginning an unexpected new chapter with Chinese fashion company Icicle. Rather than moving directly between Europe’s established luxury houses, De Sarno’s decision to look toward Shanghai reflects the increasingly global geography of contemporary fashion. Icicle has built its identity around understated clothing, natural materials and a restrained approach to luxury, creating an interesting environment for a designer known for precise tailoring and minimalist sensibilities. The appointment also represents something larger than a creative-director move. As Chinese fashion companies develop stronger identities and international ambitions, established European designers are beginning to look beyond the traditional luxury capitals for significant creative opportunities.
SIMONE ROCHA × ADIDAS
Simone Rocha is bringing her distinctive interpretation of femininity into sportswear through a new collaboration with Adidas. The partnership combines Rocha’s familiar language of lace, pearls, volume and romantic detailing with pieces rooted in athletic clothing and the Adidas archive. For Rocha, the connection is also personal, drawing on her experiences growing up in Dublin and wearing sportswear long before establishing her own fashion house. Rather than simply placing decorative elements onto existing sneakers and tracksuits, the collaboration explores the tension between performance clothing and the carefully constructed femininity that defines her work. It continues fashion’s growing relationship with sportswear while showing how recognizable brand codes can survive far beyond the traditional runway.
AARON ESH × ALLSAINTS
Aaron Esh is bringing his contemporary vision of London fashion to AllSaints with his first collection for the British retailer. Known for sharp tailoring, elongated silhouettes and an approach shaped by the people and nightlife surrounding him, Esh translates elements of his independent label into clothing designed for a much wider audience. The project sits between designer fashion and the high street, offering an example of how emerging creative voices can influence established commercial brands without abandoning their identity. Rather than treating accessibility as a compromise, the collection focuses on clothing intended to function in real life while retaining the attitude and proportion that made Esh one of London’s most closely watched young designers.
This is Issue 31.
UNIQLO U - END OF THE LEMAIRE ERA
After ten years, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are concluding their creative leadership of Uniqlo U, bringing an influential chapter in accessible design to an end. Since launching the line, the duo translated their approach to refined minimalism, thoughtful proportions and functional clothing into products available to a global audience. Uniqlo U demonstrated that sophisticated design principles did not have to remain exclusive to luxury fashion, helping elevate everyday essentials through material, construction and silhouette. Their final Fall Winter 2026 collection closes a decade-long collaboration that quietly influenced the wider industry and changed expectations around what mass-market clothing could look and feel like.
CHOPOVA LOWENA - FIRST STORE
Chopova Lowena has opened its first permanent store in London’s Bethnal Green, marking a major milestone for the independent label founded by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena. Rather than creating a conventional luxury boutique, the designers have approached the space as an extension of the eclectic world surrounding the brand, combining retail with a stronger sense of community and culture. The opening reflects Chopova Lowena’s evolution from an emerging London label into an internationally recognised name while maintaining the experimental identity that built its following. At a moment when independent designers face increasing commercial pressure, establishing a physical home represents both an ambitious step forward and a commitment to London’s creative scene.
VOGUE’S NEW GLOBAL DESIGNERS
Vogue’s latest global selection of emerging designers highlights a new generation building fashion beyond the industry’s traditional centers. Among the names are Paris-based Anthony Calydon, Berlin’s Lou de Bètoly, Seoul’s Post Archive Faction, Brazilian label Misci and Shanghai-based Shushu/Tong. Slovenian designer Tanja Vidic also stands out for her experimental knitwear, recently contributing 20 knitted looks to Rick Owens’ Hollywood collection. Across different countries, these designers combine local identity, craftsmanship and increasingly distinct approaches to contemporary fashion. Rather than following one global aesthetic, the selection reflects an industry becoming more decentralized, where regional culture and independent communities can become an advantage. Fashion’s next generation is no longer emerging from only Paris, Milan, London and New York.
GUCCI - PRIMAVERA
Gucci continues to expand its cultural universe with Primavera, a campaign bringing together an unusually diverse cast from music, sport and entertainment. Figures including Jin, EsDeeKid, Rico Nasty, Shawn Mendes and Tom Brady place global celebrity alongside younger voices from underground culture, creating deliberate contrasts between different audiences and creative scenes. Rather than relying on a single face to define the house, the campaign presents Gucci as a meeting point for multiple forms of contemporary culture. The approach reflects the increasing importance of community, music and personality in luxury communication, while demonstrating how a global fashion house can move between mainstream recognition and emerging cultural influence within the same visual world.
This is Issue 30.
SUPREME - END OF AN ERA
Supreme enters another period of transition as Chief Creative Officer Erin Magee steps down after more than two decades with the New York streetwear institution. Magee joined Supreme in 2004 and became an important figure behind the brand’s visual identity as it evolved from an independent skate label into one of the world’s most influential streetwear businesses. Her departure follows several major changes within the company in recent years and raises new questions about Supreme’s future creative direction. At a moment when streetwear itself is being redefined, the exit represents more than another leadership change. One of the defining brands of modern fashion is entering a new chapter without one of the people who helped shape its rise.
LUXURY’S NEW RESALE ERA
The luxury resale market is evolving as a new generation of consumers approaches archival fashion with increasingly specific knowledge. Shoppers are no longer searching only for major designer names, but for particular seasons, creative directors, runway collections and individual pieces. This growing level of fashion literacy is transforming vintage clothing from a secondary market into an important part of contemporary luxury culture. Archive pieces now influence new purchases, styling and even the way current collections are understood. As access to runway history continues to expand online, knowledge itself is becoming a form of value. The result is a new collector culture where provenance, rarity and context can matter as much as the logo attached to a garment.
REESE COOPER - RC OUTDOOR SUPPLY
Reese Cooper is expanding his world beyond the traditional fashion model with the opening of the first physical RC Outdoor Supply store in Silver Lake, Los Angeles. Developed together with PlayLab, the permanent space brings the designer’s technical outerwear, outdoor equipment and RCI footwear into a dedicated environment for the first time. The project reflects Cooper’s continued movement between fashion, functionality and outdoor culture while giving the independent label a physical connection to its community. At a time when many brands remain focused on digital growth, RC Outdoor Supply demonstrates the renewed importance of distinctive retail spaces. Rather than functioning simply as a store, the location extends the identity of Reese Cooper into a complete physical experience.
This is Issue 29.
SSON - THE RESORT
SSON turned the climate crisis into the central narrative of its latest collection, using fashion to confront the increasingly uncomfortable reality behind the idea of a perfect summer escape. Designer Yulia Kjellsson combined resort-inspired silhouettes with upcycled materials, contrasting beauty and optimism with references to extreme heat, pollution and environmental decline. Rather than treating sustainability as a marketing concept, the collection made it visible through both its construction and storytelling. The result offered a more direct perspective on responsible fashion while maintaining the playful energy of the brand. SSON demonstrated how a younger generation of designers is using the runway not only to present clothing, but also to address the world surrounding it.
FASHION BETS ON BALLET
Fashion’s relationship with ballet is entering a new phase as luxury houses and designers increasingly move beyond aesthetic references and build direct connections with dance institutions. Chanel continues its long-standing support of ballet, while designers including Paul Smith and Saul Nash are exploring costume, performance and movement through new creative projects. The renewed interest reflects a wider cultural fascination with ballet among younger audiences, but also fashion’s growing desire to participate in disciplines beyond the traditional runway. From craftsmanship and physical movement to storytelling and performance, the two worlds share an increasingly natural connection. Ballet is becoming more than another seasonal trend, developing into a wider cultural space for fashion to explore.
AI BECOMES FASHION’S NEW IT GIRL
Artificial intelligence is becoming increasingly intertwined with fashion culture as technology companies adopt the visual language of luxury, influencers and aspirational lifestyles. Rather than presenting AI purely as a technical tool, companies are using fashion imagery and cultural figures to make the technology feel desirable and socially relevant. The strategy reflects a larger shift in how AI is being introduced to consumers, moving from functionality toward identity and aspiration. At the same time, the relationship raises questions around authenticity, creativity and who controls the images shaping contemporary culture. As fashion continues experimenting with artificial intelligence, the technology is rapidly moving from behind the scenes into the center of the industry’s cultural conversation.
RAINS - NEW CEO
Danish fashion brand Rains enters its next phase of growth with Tom Bettinson taking over as CEO, while co-founder Daniel Brix Hesselager moves into a business development role. The leadership change comes as Rains continues expanding beyond its origins in functional rainwear into a broader international lifestyle and fashion business. With an increasingly global retail presence and stronger positioning within contemporary fashion, the company is now focusing on commercial execution and its next stage of expansion. The transition reflects the evolution of Rains from a Scandinavian outerwear specialist into an internationally recognized brand, while allowing its founding leadership to focus on new opportunities and long-term development.
This is Issue 28.
COLLINA STRADA TAKES COPENHAGEN
Collina Strada brought New York energy to Copenhagen Fashion Week as the first international brand invited into the official guest slot. Hillary Taymour adapted her expressive design language to Copenhagen’s strict sustainability requirements, creating the collection entirely from deadstock materials. The result combined playful silhouettes, bold styling and experimental craftsmanship without losing the environmental principles that have long defined the brand. More than a single runway moment, Collina Strada’s presence reflected Copenhagen Fashion Week’s growing international influence. What began as a primarily Scandinavian platform is increasingly positioning itself as an alternative global fashion destination where creativity and responsible production can exist together.
MFPEN - 10 YEARS
Copenhagen-based mfpen marked its tenth anniversary with a collection that demonstrated how far the independent label has evolved. Known for understated tailoring, unconventional proportions and its reinterpretation of familiar wardrobe staples, the brand has developed a distinctive identity within contemporary European menswear. The anniversary represented both a reflection on its first decade and a statement about what comes next. As Copenhagen’s fashion scene becomes increasingly international, mfpen remains an important example of a local independent brand building global relevance without abandoning the restrained and considered approach that originally defined it.
PAOLINA RUSSO
Paolina Russo emerged as one of the week’s important international voices, bringing an experimental combination of traditional craft, technology and youth culture to Copenhagen. The label’s distinctive approach transforms techniques associated with knitwear and handmade production through contemporary silhouettes and digital influences. In a schedule increasingly open to designers from outside Scandinavia, the presentation demonstrated Copenhagen’s growing role as a platform for independent fashion beyond its local scene. Russo’s work also reflected a broader movement among younger designers who are challenging the separation between traditional craftsmanship and technological innovation, using both as tools to build a new visual language.
COPENHAGEN LEAVES MINIMALISM BEHIND
Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27 challenged the idea that Scandinavian fashion is defined exclusively by restraint and minimalism. Across the week’s collections, designers embraced stronger colors, lace, layered textures and more expressive styling, creating a noticeably more individualistic season. The shift did not represent a complete rejection of Scandinavian design principles, but rather an expansion of what they can represent. Practicality and thoughtful construction remained important while designers became increasingly comfortable with decoration and experimentation. As Copenhagen celebrates twenty years of its fashion week, SS27 suggested that its next chapter may be defined less by a single recognizable aesthetic and more by the diversity of the designers participating in it.
This is Issue 27.
JOHN GALLIANO – MET EXHIBITION
The Metropolitan Museum of Art has announced a major exhibition dedicated to John Galliano, celebrating one of fashion’s most influential and visionary designers. Spanning decades of groundbreaking work, the exhibition will explore Galliano’s extraordinary impact on haute couture, theatrical storytelling and contemporary fashion. From his early collections to his defining years at Givenchy, Dior and Maison Margiela, the retrospective highlights a career that continuously challenged the boundaries between fashion, art and performance. More than a celebration of individual collections, the exhibition recognizes Galliano’s lasting influence on modern design and reinforces his position as one of the most important creative figures in fashion history.
ASHI STUDIO RISES
Ashi Studio continues its remarkable rise as one of haute couture’s most exciting independent houses. Known for sculptural silhouettes, architectural construction and exceptional craftsmanship, the brand has become a regular presence on international red carpets while gaining increasing recognition from editors, stylists and celebrities alike. Recent collections have demonstrated a unique ability to combine dramatic couture techniques with contemporary elegance, positioning Ashi Studio among the most closely watched names in luxury fashion. As demand for original couture continues to grow, the house is establishing itself as a significant force shaping the future of the industry.
CHRISTINE CENTERNERA × H&M
H&M has partnered with renowned fashion editor and creative consultant Christine Centenera for a capsule collection inspired by her signature approach to modern dressing. Recognised for her minimalist wardrobe, sharp tailoring and influential editorial work, Centenera brings a refined perspective to accessible fashion. The collection focuses on elevated essentials, clean silhouettes and timeless wardrobe pieces designed to transcend seasonal trends. Rather than following fast-moving fashion cycles, the collaboration emphasises longevity, versatility and thoughtful design. It reflects the growing demand for premium everyday clothing while continuing H&M’s tradition of collaborating with leading creative figures from across the fashion industry.
SUMMER POP-UPS TAKE OVER
Luxury brands continue expanding beyond traditional retail through an increasing number of destination pop-ups and immersive seasonal experiences. From Mediterranean beach clubs to coastal resorts and exclusive holiday locations, fashion houses are creating temporary spaces that combine retail, hospitality and lifestyle. Brands such as Jacquemus, Dior, Gucci and Burberry are investing in environments that allow customers to experience their identity beyond the product itself. These activations include cafés, curated boutiques, branded beaches and cultural events, reflecting a broader shift toward experiential luxury. As consumer expectations evolve, the ability to create memorable physical experiences has become just as important as presenting a new collection.
This is Issue 26.
BURBERRY – DANIEL LEE
Burberry continued its transformation under Daniel Lee with a collection that further refined the house’s modern identity. Drawing inspiration from British heritage, the runway balanced traditional tailoring with contemporary silhouettes and functional outerwear. Rich textures, earthy tones and elevated craftsmanship reinforced Burberry’s position as one of London’s defining luxury brands. The collection reflected Lee’s growing confidence at the house while demonstrating a clear vision for the future. As one of the week’s headline shows, Burberry once again set the benchmark for British luxury on the international stage.
ERDEM – 20 YEARS
Erdem celebrated two decades of design with a collection that looked back on the brand’s history while embracing its future. Romantic silhouettes, intricate embroidery and exceptional craftsmanship remained at the heart of the presentation, highlighting the signature aesthetic that has defined the house since its founding. Rather than relying on nostalgia, the collection reinterpreted familiar codes through a contemporary lens, demonstrating the continued evolution of the brand. The anniversary show stood out as one of London Fashion Week’s most elegant and emotionally resonant presentations.
S.S. DALEY
S.S. Daley further established himself as one of Britain’s most exciting young designers with a collection that blended classic tailoring, cultural storytelling and modern craftsmanship. Known for reimagining traditional British dress through a fresh and youthful perspective, Steven Stokey-Daley delivered a presentation that felt both personal and sophisticated. The collection explored identity, heritage and contemporary masculinity while maintaining the refined construction that has become synonymous with the label. Following years of growing international recognition, S.S. Daley continues to shape the future of British fashion and remains one of the industry’s most closely watched emerging talents.
SIMONE ROCHA
Simone Rocha once again demonstrated why she remains one of London’s most distinctive creative voices. Her latest collection expanded on the romantic aesthetic that has defined the brand while introducing sharper tailoring and sculptural silhouettes. Delicate embellishments, layered textures and signature pearl details were combined with a stronger sense of structure, creating a compelling balance between softness and strength. The presentation highlighted Rocha’s ability to evolve her visual language without losing its unmistakable identity, securing another standout moment during London Fashion Week.
This is Issue 25.
RABANNE – OLIVIER ROUSTEING
Fashion’s latest creative shake-up sees Olivier Rousteing take the helm at Rabanne, marking one of the industry’s biggest appointments of the year. After more than a decade of defining Balmain through bold silhouettes and strong cultural influence, Rousteing now faces the challenge of reinterpreting Rabanne’s iconic heritage. Known for its futuristic aesthetic and innovative use of metal, the French house offers a new creative playground that aligns with Rousteing’s theatrical vision. The appointment signals another major shift within luxury fashion as brands continue redefining their identities through a new generation of creative leadership.
HERMÈS ENTERS HAUTE COUTURE
Hermès is preparing to expand its presence into haute couture, a move that reflects the growing demand for exceptional craftsmanship and ultra-exclusive luxury. Already regarded as one of the world’s leading maisons for leather goods and ready-to-wear, the brand’s potential couture offering would represent a significant milestone in its history. With its reputation for timeless design, artisanal excellence and limited production, Hermès is uniquely positioned to bring a quieter and more refined perspective to the couture landscape. The announcement has immediately become one of the most closely watched developments in the luxury industry.
BALENCIAGA’S NEW DIRECTION
Following Pierpaolo Piccioli’s acclaimed couture debut, Balenciaga enters a new creative era defined by elegance, emotion and exceptional craftsmanship. Rather than relying on provocation, the collection focused on refined tailoring, sculptural silhouettes and a renewed appreciation for couture techniques. The presentation demonstrated that Balenciaga can evolve while remaining connected to the architectural principles established by Cristóbal Balenciaga. With strong critical reception from editors and buyers alike, the collection has positioned the house for an exciting new chapter as the fashion industry looks toward the upcoming ready-to-wear season.
LONDON FASHION WEEK SS27
With Paris Haute Couture Week concluded, attention now shifts to London Fashion Week as the international fashion calendar continues toward the Spring Summer 2027 season. The newly released schedule highlights a strong mix of established British fashion houses and emerging independent designers, reinforcing London’s reputation as a platform for experimentation and new talent. The week is expected to showcase innovative approaches to sustainability, craftsmanship and contemporary design while introducing the next generation of influential creatives. As the industry moves forward, London once again becomes an important stage for shaping the future of global fashion.
This is Issue 24.
BALENCIAGA - PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI
Pierpaolo Piccioli officially began a new chapter at Balenciaga with one of the most anticipated couture debuts in recent years. Rather than attempting to replicate the house’s past, Piccioli introduced a softer and more emotional interpretation of Balenciaga’s architectural heritage. Sculptural silhouettes, exceptional craftsmanship and refined elegance defined a collection that balanced innovation with tradition. The presentation demonstrated a deep respect for Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy while establishing a distinct creative direction for the future. Widely praised by critics and editors, the debut became one of the defining moments of Paris Haute Couture Week and confirmed Piccioli as one of the industry’s most influential creative leaders.
SCHIAPARELLI - DANIEL ROSEBERRY
Daniel Roseberry once again pushed the boundaries of haute couture with a collection that blurred the line between fashion, sculpture and contemporary art. Combining extraordinary craftsmanship with surreal silhouettes and unexpected materials, the presentation explored themes of illusion, fantasy and transformation. Every garment demonstrated the technical precision that has become synonymous with Schiaparelli under Roseberry’s direction while continuing to challenge conventional ideas of couture. The show was widely regarded as one of the week’s creative highlights, reinforcing Schiaparelli’s position as one of the most innovative houses in modern fashion.
MAISON MARGIELA - GLENN MARTENS
Maison Margiela entered a new era as Glenn Martens presented his first Artisanal collection for the house. Known for his experimental approach to construction and deconstruction, Martens delivered a collection that respected Margiela’s revolutionary legacy while introducing his own contemporary perspective. Dramatic silhouettes, intricate craftsmanship and innovative garment construction defined the presentation, creating one of the most discussed collections of the season. The debut successfully balanced heritage with evolution, offering a confident vision for the future of one of fashion’s most influential maisons.
ROBERT WUN
Robert Wun continued his remarkable rise with a couture collection that combined technical excellence with cinematic storytelling. Every look was conceived as part of a larger narrative, transforming the runway into an emotional journey rather than a traditional fashion presentation. Sculptural silhouettes, exceptional craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail highlighted the designer’s ability to merge fantasy with precision. As couture continues to embrace new creative voices, Wun’s presentation stood out as one of the week’s most original and visually compelling collections. The show further established him as one of the most exciting talents shaping the future of haute couture.
This is Issue 23.
BALENCIAGA - PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI
Haute Couture Week begins with one of the industry’s most anticipated moments as Pierpaolo Piccioli prepares to unveil his first couture collection for Balenciaga. After redefining modern couture during his years at Valentino, Piccioli now takes the creative lead at one of fashion’s most influential maisons. His debut is expected to balance Cristóbal Balenciaga’s architectural heritage with a softer and more emotional approach to couture. As creative transitions continue to reshape luxury fashion, all eyes are on Paris to see how Piccioli will define the next chapter of Balenciaga.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER - DURAN LANTINK
Dutch designer Duran Lantink makes his highly anticipated couture debut for Jean Paul Gaultier, continuing the house’s tradition of inviting visionary designers to reinterpret its legacy. Known for sculptural silhouettes, bold experimentation and sustainable design practices, Lantink brings a contemporary perspective to one of fashion’s most iconic brands. His appointment reflects couture’s growing openness to younger creative voices while reinforcing Paris as the center of innovation. The presentation is expected to be one of the defining moments of the week.
MAISON MARGIELA - GLENN MARTENS
Maison Margiela enters a new era as Glenn Martens prepares to present his first Artisanal collection for the house. Following years of critical acclaim at Y/Project and Diesel, Martens now faces the challenge of continuing one of fashion’s most influential creative legacies. His approach combines technical innovation, deconstruction and craftsmanship, making his debut one of the most anticipated presentations of the season. The collection will offer the first insight into how Martens plans to reinterpret Margiela’s iconic language for a new generation.
SCHIAPARELLI - DANIEL ROSEBERRY
Daniel Roseberry continues to redefine contemporary couture at Schiaparelli through collections that blur the boundaries between fashion, sculpture and surrealism. His work has become synonymous with bold silhouettes, extraordinary craftsmanship and theatrical imagination, attracting attention far beyond the traditional couture audience. Each presentation pushes the limits of haute couture while remaining rooted in the house’s artistic heritage. As Couture Week opens, Schiaparelli once again sets the tone for creativity and innovation in Paris.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
Iris van Herpen returns to Paris with another collection exploring the intersection of couture, technology and nature. Renowned for combining advanced fabrication techniques with exceptional craftsmanship, the Dutch designer continues to challenge conventional ideas of fashion. Her work often incorporates movement, biomimicry and scientific research, resulting in garments that feel both futuristic and timeless. As one of couture’s most innovative voices, Van Herpen remains at the forefront of experimental design while expanding the possibilities of what haute couture can become.
CHANEL - BETWEEN ERAS
Chanel arrives in Paris during a significant period of transition as the house continues preparing for its next creative chapter. While maintaining its signature codes of elegance, craftsmanship and timeless sophistication, the maison remains one of the most closely watched names throughout Couture Week. Every collection carries the weight of Chanel’s extraordinary heritage while offering subtle indications of the direction ahead. As anticipation continues to build around the brand’s future, Paris once again turns its attention to one of fashion’s most enduring institutions.
ARMANI PRIVÉ - 20 YEARS
Giorgio Armani celebrates twenty years of Armani Privé, marking an important milestone in contemporary haute couture. Since its launch, the line has become synonymous with refined elegance, exceptional tailoring and understated luxury. Rather than following seasonal trends, Armani has consistently focused on timeless silhouettes and impeccable craftsmanship, earning lasting respect within the couture world. The anniversary collection celebrates two decades of Italian excellence while reaffirming the enduring relevance of quiet sophistication in modern fashion.
This is Issue 22.
CELINE - MICHAEL RIDER
One of the most anticipated moments of Paris Fashion Week came with Michael Rider’s first menswear collection for Celine. Tasked with leading one of luxury fashion’s most influential houses, Rider introduced a vision that balanced the brand’s refined heritage with a more relaxed and contemporary approach. Soft tailoring, understated luxury and effortless silhouettes defined the collection, marking a clear transition into Celine’s next chapter. Rather than attempting to recreate the past, Rider established a fresh direction while respecting the codes that made the house globally influential. The debut immediately became one of the week’s most discussed presentations and signaled the beginning of a new era for the French fashion house.
DIOR - JONATHAN ANDERSON
Jonathan Anderson continued shaping his vision for Dior with one of the most closely watched shows of the season. Instead of relying on spectacle, the collection explored proportion, craftsmanship and a modern interpretation of Dior’s historic identity. Tailoring remained central, while softer silhouettes and subtle detailing reflected Anderson’s distinctive design language. Following months of anticipation, the presentation demonstrated growing confidence and a clearer understanding of how his creative vision can coexist with one of fashion’s most iconic maisons. Widely praised by critics and industry insiders, the show confirmed Dior as one of the defining moments of Paris Fashion Week.
SAINT LAURENT - ANTHONY VACCARELLO
Anthony Vaccarello delivered one of the strongest collections of the week, reinforcing Saint Laurent’s position at the forefront of contemporary luxury menswear. Presented in a dramatic setting, the collection combined sharp tailoring with fluid fabrics, transparent layers and elegant evening silhouettes. Rather than chasing trends, Vaccarello focused on refinement, confidence and timeless sophistication, continuing to evolve the house’s unmistakable identity. The balance between sensuality and precision resonated strongly with editors and buyers, making the presentation one of the season’s critical highlights. Once again, Saint Laurent demonstrated why it remains one of Paris Fashion Week’s most consistently influential brands.
WILLY CHAVARRIA
Willy Chavarria once again delivered one of the most powerful collections of Paris Fashion Week, combining exceptional tailoring with deeply personal storytelling. His presentation continued to explore themes of identity, community and social commentary while maintaining the oversized silhouettes and precise construction that have become synonymous with the brand. Rather than separating fashion from culture, Chavarria used the runway as a platform for dialogue, proving that contemporary menswear can be both visually compelling and culturally significant. The collection further cemented his reputation as one of the industry’s most important creative voices.
RICK OWENS
Rick Owens presented another unforgettable show, staying true to the uncompromising vision that has defined his career. Monumental silhouettes, architectural proportions and a dramatic runway atmosphere once again blurred the line between fashion and performance art. While remaining unmistakably Rick Owens, the collection introduced subtle evolutions in tailoring and construction that demonstrated the brand’s constant progression. As one of the most photographed and discussed presentations of the week, the show reaffirmed Owens’ position as one of Paris Fashion Week’s most influential independent designers.
HED MAYNER
Hed Mayner continued refining his distinctive approach to oversized tailoring with a collection that balanced volume, precision and restraint. Relaxed proportions, sculptural outerwear and carefully constructed silhouettes created garments that felt both contemporary and timeless. Rather than following seasonal trends, the Israeli designer remained focused on craftsmanship and functionality, further establishing his reputation as one of menswear’s most respected independent talents. The collection received widespread praise from editors for its quiet confidence and exceptional execution.
JUNYA WATANABE
Junya Watanabe once again demonstrated his ability to merge technical innovation with classic menswear references. The collection explored intricate construction techniques, utilitarian influences and unexpected fabric combinations while maintaining the precision that has defined the Japanese designer’s work for decades. Every look reflected meticulous craftsmanship and an experimental spirit that continues to distinguish Junya Watanabe from the rest of the Paris calendar. The presentation reinforced the importance of technical excellence within contemporary fashion.
SONGZIO
Songzio delivered one of the strongest collections among the independent labels in Paris. Known for combining artistic expression with dark tailoring and sculptural silhouettes, the Korean house continued to refine its unique visual identity. Dramatic layering, painterly textures and precise construction created a collection that felt both emotional and highly sophisticated. As global interest in Korean fashion continues to grow, Songzio further strengthened its position as one of the leading names shaping modern menswear.
SACAI
Sacai presented another highly praised collection built around Chitose Abe’s signature hybrid design language. Tailoring merged seamlessly with sportswear, technical fabrics met traditional construction and familiar garments were transformed through innovative layering. Rather than reinventing its identity, Sacai continued evolving a design philosophy that has consistently influenced contemporary fashion. The collection highlighted the brand’s ability to balance creativity with wearability while remaining one of the industry’s most respected innovators.
KIKO KOSTADINOV
Kiko Kostadinov once again pushed the boundaries of contemporary menswear through experimental tailoring and advanced garment construction. Technical fabrics, unconventional proportions and architectural silhouettes defined a collection that challenged traditional ideas of luxury clothing. While remaining highly conceptual, the presentation demonstrated remarkable attention to craftsmanship and functionality. Editors and buyers praised the collection for its originality, further cementing Kostadinov’s reputation as one of fashion’s most forward-thinking designers.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Yohji Yamamoto delivered another deeply poetic collection centered around timeless tailoring, exceptional craftsmanship and understated elegance. Rather than responding to short-term trends, the Japanese designer remained committed to creating garments with longevity and emotional depth. Flowing silhouettes, monochromatic palettes and meticulous construction reflected a philosophy that values permanence over novelty. In a season driven by creative transitions, Yohji once again reminded the industry of the enduring power of authentic design.
COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus continued challenging conventional menswear through conceptual design and sculptural silhouettes. Rei Kawakubo presented a collection that questioned traditional ideas of tailoring, proportion and form while embracing theatrical styling and artistic experimentation. More than simply presenting clothing, the show invited audiences to reconsider the possibilities of fashion itself. Once again, the house demonstrated why it remains one of the most influential creative forces in contemporary design.
LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI
Louis Gabriel Nouchi continued his impressive rise with another confident presentation built around sensual tailoring and understated minimalism. Clean silhouettes, fluid construction and a strong emphasis on modern masculinity defined the collection, further distinguishing LGN from many of the week’s emerging labels. With each season, the Paris-based designer strengthens his position as one of France’s most promising contemporary voices, earning growing recognition from buyers, editors and the international fashion community.
KENZO
Kenzo expanded the traditional fashion week format by transforming Place des Victoires into a week-long cultural destination. Alongside the runway presentation, the brand introduced cafés, markets, exhibitions and community spaces that invited the public into the world of Kenzo. The initiative reflected a growing industry shift toward immersive brand experiences that extend beyond seasonal collections. By combining fashion, culture and public engagement, Kenzo demonstrated how luxury brands increasingly build communities rather than simply presenting products.
SOLID HOMME
Solid Homme delivered one of the cleanest tailoring collections of the season, reinforcing South Korea’s growing influence within global menswear. Relaxed silhouettes, refined proportions and understated styling created a collection built around precision rather than spectacle. The presentation reflected the brand’s consistent commitment to craftsmanship and timeless design while further establishing Solid Homme as one of the strongest voices emerging from the Korean fashion scene.
LEMAIRE
Lemaire once again proved that quiet luxury remains one of the strongest directions in contemporary fashion. Relaxed tailoring, exceptional fabric selection and understated styling defined a collection that prioritized longevity over seasonal trends. Every look reflected the brand’s commitment to timeless elegance and effortless sophistication. In a week filled with high-profile debuts and theatrical presentations, Lemaire stood out through confidence, restraint and impeccable execution.
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake continued exploring innovation through movement, lightweight construction and the brand’s signature pleating techniques. The collection celebrated functionality without sacrificing creativity, presenting garments designed to move naturally with the body while maintaining their sculptural form. Combining technical research with minimalist aesthetics, the presentation once again demonstrated why Homme Plissé remains one of the most influential names in contemporary menswear.
This is Issue 21.
PRADA - CLARITY
Prada delivered one of the most discussed collections of Milan Fashion Week with its Spring/Summer 2027 presentation titled Clarity. Rather than embracing spectacle or complexity, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons focused on reduction, purpose and simplicity. Clean silhouettes, lightweight tailoring and restrained styling defined the collection, offering a vision of luxury built around longevity rather than excess. The show reflected a growing desire for clothing that feels relevant beyond a single season while challenging the industry’s recent obsession with constant novelty. In a moment where fashion often competes for attention through scale and noise, Prada proposed a quieter alternative. The collection reinforced the house’s influence while helping shape the conversation around the future direction of menswear.
GUCCI OPENS PALAZZO GUCCI
Gucci expanded its cultural presence in Florence with the opening of Palazzo Gucci, a new destination dedicated to the brand’s history, identity and future ambitions. Located in the city where Gucci was founded, the space combines archival storytelling, exhibitions and contemporary brand experiences under one roof. The opening arrives at a significant moment for the house as attention continues to build around its next chapter under Demna. More than a retail project, Palazzo Gucci represents an investment in cultural positioning and long-term brand building. By connecting heritage with contemporary relevance, Gucci continues to strengthen its role beyond fashion while creating a physical landmark that celebrates both its past and future.
SIMONE ROCHA DEBUTS AT PITTI UOMO
One of the most anticipated moments of the menswear season came from Simone Rocha, who presented her first dedicated menswear runway show at Pitti Uomo in Florence. Known for blending romanticism, craftsmanship and unconventional proportions, Rocha brought her distinctive visual language to a new audience while expanding the scope of her brand. The presentation demonstrated how contemporary menswear continues to evolve beyond traditional definitions, embracing softness, decoration and emotional expression alongside tailoring and structure. As the industry searches for new perspectives, Rocha’s debut stood out as one of the most significant presentations of the week. The show marked an important milestone for the designer while highlighting the increasingly fluid boundaries shaping modern fashion.
THE BIG DEBUTS
Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 will be defined by a series of highly anticipated debuts. Michael Rider is set to present his first menswear collection for Celine, marking the beginning of a new chapter for one of fashion’s most influential houses. Sarah Burton will unveil her first menswear collection for Givenchy, expanding her vision beyond womenswear and into a category that remains central to the Paris calendar. At the same time, Meryll Rogge prepares to present the first menswear collection under her own label following her appointment as Creative Director of Marni. Together, these debuts represent more than new collections. They offer the first real indication of how several important creative transitions may shape the future of luxury fashion.
KENZO BUILDS A WORLD
Rather than focusing solely on a runway presentation, Kenzo is transforming Place des Victoires into a week-long public experience during Paris Fashion Week. The activation includes a showroom, coffee shop, market, flower shop and a series of brand-led cultural initiatives designed to bring visitors directly into the world of the house. The project reflects a broader industry movement in which fashion brands increasingly operate as cultural platforms rather than product-driven businesses. As consumers seek deeper engagement and community, labels are investing in experiences that extend beyond the runway. Kenzo’s approach demonstrates how fashion continues to evolve from seasonal presentations into immersive environments that combine retail, hospitality, culture and storytelling.
EMERGING MOMENTUM
Several emerging and evolving names are entering Paris Fashion Week with significant momentum. Soshiotsuki joins the official Paris calendar following international recognition and growing attention from buyers and editors worldwide. Feng Chen Wang continues to strengthen her position as one of the most closely watched voices in contemporary menswear, building a global audience through her distinctive approach to design and construction. Meanwhile, Peter Copping prepares his first standalone menswear presentation for Lanvin on the official schedule, marking an important step in the house’s ongoing evolution. Together, these developments highlight a season shaped not only by major luxury brands, but also by a new generation of designers redefining the future of menswear.
This is Issue 20.
KIDSUPER LEAVES PARIS
One of the biggest surprises ahead of the Spring/Summer 2027 menswear season comes from KidSuper. After becoming a regular highlight of Paris Fashion Week in recent years, founder Colm Dillane has decided to move the brand’s next presentation from Paris to Miami. The show will take place during the FIFA World Cup and aims to combine fashion, football, music and cultural exchange within a single event. Rather than following the traditional fashion week model, KidSuper is positioning itself within a much larger global conversation. The decision reflects a broader shift across the industry, where brands increasingly seek audiences beyond the established fashion capitals. While the move represents a temporary departure from Paris, KidSuper has already confirmed its return next season. The project demonstrates how independent brands continue to challenge traditional formats while expanding fashion’s role within global culture.
BAPE x KIDSUPER
Bape and KidSuper have unveiled one of the most ambitious collaborative projects of the year. Created around the upcoming FIFA World Cup, the partnership introduces 48 individual Bape Sta sneakers, each representing one of the participating nations. Instead of focusing on a single hero product, the collection transforms every country into its own unique design, creating a project that sits somewhere between sports merchandise, collectible design and contemporary fashion. The collaboration further strengthens the relationship between football culture and the fashion industry, a connection that has become increasingly visible in recent years. By combining Bape’s established sneaker heritage with KidSuper’s playful and community-driven approach, the release expands beyond footwear and becomes a larger cultural statement about identity, representation and global participation.
PITTI UOMO RETURNS
The arrival of Pitti Uomo officially marks the beginning of another menswear season. As buyers, editors, designers and industry professionals gather in Florence, attention turns toward the first major event of the Spring/Summer 2027 calendar. Known for its unique combination of established luxury houses, emerging designers and influential street style, Pitti Uomo remains one of the most important platforms within menswear. This season brings renewed interest as the industry enters a period of transition shaped by creative director changes, evolving consumer behaviour and shifting market conditions. Beyond the collections themselves, the event serves as an early indicator of broader movements within fashion. The conversations, presentations and emerging talents showcased in Florence often help define the direction of the season long before the major runway shows begin in Milan and Paris.
FRASERS TARGETS HUGO BOSS
The luxury and retail sectors received significant attention this week following reports that Frasers Group is exploring a potential takeover offer for Hugo Boss. News of the proposal immediately impacted financial markets and renewed discussions about consolidation within the fashion industry. Hugo Boss has spent recent years rebuilding its position through product development, marketing investments and a renewed focus on global growth. At the same time, Frasers continues to expand its influence across retail and luxury through strategic acquisitions and investments. While the future outcome remains uncertain, the situation highlights the increasing importance of scale, ownership and financial power within the modern fashion landscape. Beyond design and creativity, the industry is increasingly shaped by corporate strategy, investment activity and long-term business positioning.
This is Issue 19.
PRADA x NASA
Prada’s collaboration with NASA and Axiom Space became one of the most unexpected fashion stories of the year. While luxury brands have long explored technology and innovation, this partnership moves beyond symbolism and into real-world application. Prada contributed to the development of the next-generation lunar spacesuit that will be used during future Artemis missions, marking a rare moment where fashion enters a field traditionally dominated by engineering and aerospace research. The project highlights how luxury brands increasingly seek relevance beyond clothing, positioning themselves within conversations around science, design, and the future. More importantly, it demonstrates how fashion can influence functionality at the highest level. What began as a luxury house in Milan is now participating in the next chapter of space exploration.
CARVEN - KAI NESSELRATH
Carven announced Kai Nesselrath as its new Design Director, opening another chapter in the ongoing reshuffling of luxury fashion. Having previously worked within the Saint Laurent system, Nesselrath arrives with strong experience in contemporary tailoring and modern luxury. His appointment follows Carven’s recent efforts to rebuild its identity and reconnect with a younger audience while maintaining the house’s historic foundations. In an industry currently defined by creative transitions, the success of a brand increasingly depends on balancing heritage with relevance. Carven remains one of the most closely watched revival projects in Paris, and Nesselrath’s arrival signals a continued commitment to long-term development rather than short-term attention. His first collections will likely determine how the brand positions itself within the next generation of French fashion.
KARTIK RESEARCH
Kartik Research became an unexpected talking point across the menswear community after postponing its upcoming Paris presentation. While schedule changes are not uncommon within fashion, the response revealed something larger than a simple calendar adjustment. Designers, editors, buyers, and supporters responded with visible encouragement, highlighting the strong community that has formed around the independent Indian label. The conversation shifted away from product releases and toward the realities of building a fashion brand in an increasingly demanding industry. Kartik Research has developed a reputation for combining traditional craftsmanship, textile research, and contemporary design, earning respect far beyond its size. The reaction to the postponement demonstrated that fashion audiences are increasingly interested not only in collections, but also in the people and processes behind them. In a season dominated by major luxury houses, the story served as a reminder that independent brands continue to shape some of the industry’s most meaningful conversations.
This is Issue 18.
PALACE x NIKE ENGLAND
Palace and Nike brought football culture back into the center of the fashion conversation through their England collaboration. The project merged national team aesthetics with Palace’s established streetwear identity, creating a product that felt equally relevant on the pitch, in the stands, and on social media. Football continues to move beyond sport and further into fashion, with jerseys increasingly functioning as lifestyle pieces rather than performance garments. The collaboration reflects a broader shift where clubs, federations, and sportswear brands operate as cultural platforms rather than purely athletic institutions.
ZEGNA TO LOS ANGELES
Zegna’s decision to bring its next major presentation to Los Angeles highlights a continuing shift in luxury geography. Fashion increasingly follows cultural influence, investment, and audience growth rather than relying exclusively on traditional capitals. Los Angeles offers direct access to entertainment, celebrity culture, and a growing luxury consumer base. Destination shows have become powerful branding tools because they allow houses to build narratives around location as much as product. For Zegna, Los Angeles represents both a market and a statement about where modern menswear continues to evolve.
KITH x TAYLORMADE
Kith and TaylorMade continued fashion’s growing relationship with golf culture. Once considered a niche sport within fashion, golf has become increasingly influential through collaborations that merge performance equipment, apparel, and lifestyle branding. The partnership positions golf as part of a wider luxury and leisure ecosystem, where sport is no longer separated from fashion identity. Kith’s ability to reinterpret established brands through its own visual language remains central to the collaboration’s success. The result feels less like sportswear and more like a cultural product.
LANVIN CEO SHIFT
Lanvin entered a new chapter through changes in leadership, reinforcing the challenges facing many heritage luxury houses. While creative direction often dominates headlines, executive appointments frequently determine the long-term trajectory of a brand. Lanvin remains one of fashion’s most historically significant names, but recent years have been defined by repositioning efforts and changing market expectations. The new leadership arrives with the task of rebuilding momentum, strengthening desirability, and clarifying the house’s place within the modern luxury landscape. The move reflects a wider industry reality: heritage alone is no longer enough to guarantee relevance.
This is Issue 17.
PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK SS27
The official Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 schedule confirmed what much of the industry has already been anticipating: fashion is entering another major transition phase. Several houses approach the season with new creative leadership, including Michael Rider at Celine and Sarah Burton at Givenchy. These debuts are not simply new collections — they represent directional resets for globally influential brands. The calendar reflects a broader shift away from stability and toward recalibration. Expectations remain high because these appointments will shape the visual language of luxury fashion for the coming years. Paris once again positions itself as the center of that conversation.
CANNES RED CARPET SHIFT
The Cannes Film Festival once again became one of fashion’s most important visibility platforms. This year, the red carpet signaled a shift away from hyper-exposed styling and toward more controlled tailoring and archival references. Luxury houses dominated appearances through structured silhouettes, black eveningwear, and historically influenced styling choices. The red carpet increasingly functions as an extension of runway strategy, where brands test cultural impact in real time. Fashion and cinema continue to reinforce each other because both industries rely on image, narrative, and celebrity visibility to shape perception globally.
ZEGNA — DUBAI SHOW MOVE
Zegna’s decision to stage a major presentation in Dubai reflects fashion’s continued geographic expansion beyond traditional capitals. Luxury brands are increasingly aligning themselves with regions that hold growing economic and cultural influence, particularly in the Middle East. Destination shows are no longer exceptional moments — they are becoming part of the long-term structure of luxury branding. Dubai represents more than a location choice. It signals where fashion sees future growth, investment, and audience attention. The industry is decentralizing while simultaneously becoming more global.
RICK OWENS — TEMPLE OF LOVE
Rick Owens continued to dominate online fashion discourse through “Temple of Love,” a project that further blurred the boundaries between fashion, performance, installation, and ritual. Owens’ work consistently operates beyond traditional runway logic, focusing instead on atmosphere, body transformation, and emotional intensity. The project reinforced his position as one of the few designers capable of maintaining strong cult relevance while still influencing the broader luxury conversation. Fashion increasingly intersects with art and performance, but Owens remains one of the clearest examples of a designer building an entire world rather than simply producing collections.
This is Issue16.
GUCCI CRUISE 2027 - TIMES SQUARE
Gucci transformed Times Square into a large-scale fashion environment during its Cruise 2027 presentation in New York. Under Demna’s direction, the brand moved beyond the traditional runway format and turned the city itself into part of the spectacle. Massive synchronized billboards surrounded the show space while celebrity casting, heavy branding, and constant digital circulation pushed the event far beyond fashion audiences alone. The presentation reflected how luxury brands increasingly operate through visibility and scale rather than exclusivity alone. Fashion is no longer confined to invitation-only spaces — it now competes directly with entertainment, advertising, and internet culture in public environments. Gucci’s approach demonstrated how modern luxury increasingly functions through total cultural occupation rather than isolated product presentation.
RICK OWENS - TEMPLE OF LOVE
Rick Owens continued expanding his theatrical runway language through “Temple of Love,” a presentation that merged fashion, performance, and ritualistic staging. Sculptural silhouettes, exaggerated proportions, and dark monochromatic styling reinforced the designer’s ongoing fascination with the body as architecture. Rather than focusing on commercial accessibility, the show emphasized atmosphere, movement, and emotional intensity. Owens continues to operate outside the traditional luxury system by maintaining a world that feels internally consistent and culturally distinct. The presentation also highlighted how fashion audiences increasingly search for experiences rather than garments alone. In an industry dominated by fast digital visibility, Owens remains one of the few designers capable of creating moments that still feel ceremonial and physically immersive.
CANNES 2026 - ARCHIVE RETURN
Archive fashion continued dominating the Cannes Film Festival as celebrities increasingly relied on vintage runway pieces rather than current-season collections. Older designs from houses such as Alaïa, Prada, and Elie Saab resurfaced throughout the week, reinforcing the growing importance of fashion history within contemporary styling culture. Archive dressing now signals knowledge, rarity, and cultural awareness more than simple luxury consumption. The shift also reflects how audiences engage with fashion online, where references and historical recognition often generate stronger reactions than new releases alone. Cannes demonstrated that vintage fashion is no longer treated as alternative styling — it has become a central part of luxury positioning and modern celebrity image-building.
CELINE - MICHAEL RIDER TALK
Industry discussion around Michael Rider’s future direction for Celine intensified as speculation surrounding the brand’s post-Hedi Slimane era continued building. While official details remain limited, expectations around a possible return to sharper minimalism and cleaner tailoring have already started shaping conversations across fashion media and retail circles. The transition represents more than a standard creative-director change. Celine remains one of the most culturally influential luxury houses of the last decade, meaning any directional shift carries significant industry impact. The anticipation surrounding Rider reflects a broader movement within fashion toward restraint, precision, and reduced visual noise after years dominated by hyper-stylized aesthetics and internet-driven excess.
AI AESTHETICS IN LUXURY
rtificial intelligence aesthetics continued entering luxury fashion campaigns as brands increasingly experimented with fictional products, synthetic visuals, and digitally manipulated advertising environments. Recent campaigns blurred the boundary between reality and simulation by presenting exaggerated branded universes designed primarily for online circulation and immediate attention. Rather than using AI only as a technical tool, luxury brands are beginning to integrate artificial imagery directly into their visual identity systems. The shift reflects a wider transformation in fashion communication, where storytelling, atmosphere, and internet reaction often matter more than product information itself. Luxury branding is moving toward constructed digital worlds that function simultaneously as campaigns, entertainment, and social-media content.
This is Issue 15.
LOUIS VUITTON x TYSHAWN JONES
Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign featuring Tyshawn Jones continued Pharrell Williams’ broader strategy of integrating street culture directly into luxury positioning. Rather than using skateboarding as visual reference alone, the campaign placed an actual figure from the scene at the center of the narrative. This distinction matters. Authenticity has become one of fashion’s most valuable currencies, particularly among younger audiences who immediately recognize forced cultural alignment. The campaign leaned heavily into New York energy — direct, fast-moving, and rooted in subculture rather than traditional luxury environments. Vuitton continues to position itself less as a heritage house and more as a cultural platform operating across fashion, music, sport, and youth identity simultaneously.
SUPREME x APHEX TWIN
Supreme’s collaboration with Aphex Twin became one of the most discussed streetwear releases of the week. The partnership connected two long-standing cult entities: a brand deeply tied to skate and street culture, and an artist associated with experimental electronic music and internet-era visual identity. The graphics carried much of the attention, referencing Aphex Twin’s recognizable imagery while maintaining Supreme’s established visual format. What made the collaboration effective was its specificity. It did not attempt broad accessibility. Instead, it targeted a highly online, culturally aware audience already familiar with both worlds. The result was less a mass-market release and more a signal to a core community.
UNIQLO x ANYA HINDMARCH
The newly announced Uniqlo x Anya Hindmarch capsule continued the growing dominance of designer collaborations within accessible retail. Hindmarch’s playful visual language translated naturally into everyday basics, reinforcing a model that has become increasingly important within fashion: luxury aesthetics integrated into functional daily clothing. Unlike runway-driven collaborations, projects like this focus less on exclusivity and more on consistency, usability, and broad reach. The success of these partnerships reflects changing consumer behavior. Many buyers are no longer looking for statement pieces alone — they want recognizable design language within practical products they can wear continuously.
NEW BALANCE x MIU MIU
The ongoing partnership between New Balance and Miu Miu continues to strengthen the connection between luxury fashion and performance footwear. The collaboration maintains a restrained visual approach, relying on subtle modifications rather than aggressive redesign. Minimal sneakers, muted tones, and styling-focused presentation remain central to its success. The partnership demonstrates how luxury no longer avoids functionality — it absorbs it. Performance shoes are now fully integrated into high-fashion styling systems, appearing in editorial campaigns, retail environments, and luxury wardrobes without contradiction. This shift reflects a broader recalibration of what modern luxury looks like: less formal, more adaptable, and increasingly tied to movement and everyday wear.
This is Issue 14.
SALONE DEL MOBILE — MILAN
Milan Design Week once again expanded beyond furniture into a full cultural platform. Fashion brands used the Salone del Mobile not just to present objects, but to build environments. Installations replaced traditional displays, turning spaces into immersive statements. The distinction between product categories blurred — interiors, objects, and fashion language merged into one system. For luxury brands, this is no longer an experiment. It is a strategic expansion. Clothing alone is no longer sufficient to define identity. Instead, brands construct entire worlds. Milan remains the key stage for this shift, where design becomes a direct extension of fashion.
CHANEL CRUISE - LAKE COMO
Chanel’s Cruise 2026 show in Lake Como reinforced the house’s long-standing approach to destination-based storytelling. The location played a central role, shaping both the visual tone and the narrative of the collection. Light silhouettes, decorative elements, and fluid construction reflected the environment. Cruise collections operate differently from main season shows — they are less about pushing new silhouettes and more about reinforcing lifestyle and aspiration. Chanel continues to execute this format with precision, using setting, casting, and atmosphere to maintain its position within luxury culture.
PUMA x A$AP ROCKY
The collaboration between Puma and A$AP Rocky continues to push the intersection of sport, music, and fashion. Motorsport references remain central, translating into both apparel and footwear. Rocky’s involvement extends beyond endorsement — it shapes the visual language and cultural positioning of the product. This is where sportswear collaborations have evolved: they are no longer about function alone, but about identity and visibility. The success of these projects lies in their ability to operate across multiple audiences simultaneously, from fashion consumers to music-driven communities.
FRAME x RITZ PARIS
Frame’s collaboration with Ritz Paris reflects the growing overlap between fashion and hospitality. The partnership extends beyond clothing into a broader lifestyle concept, where branding is tied to experience. This type of collaboration expands the role of fashion into environments traditionally outside its scope. Hotels, restaurants, and cultural institutions become platforms for product and storytelling. The result is a different kind of visibility — one that is tied to place, memory, and interaction rather than traditional retail. Fashion increasingly operates through these cross-industry connections.
This is Issue 13.
BOTTEGA VENETA - LOUISE
Bottega Veneta confirmed Louise Trotter as its new creative director, marking one of the most important structural shifts of the week. Following Matthieu Blazy’s tenure, the house enters a new phase where expectations are already clearly defined: maintain craft authority while introducing a new design discipline. Trotter’s background suggests a more controlled and precise approach, potentially less experimental but highly focused on construction and material clarity. The industry reaction was immediate because Bottega currently sits at a critical position within luxury — stable, respected, and closely watched. Any directional change will influence not only the brand but the broader conversation around modern craftsmanship.
DIESEL x SAVAGE x FENTY
Diesel’s collaboration with Savage x Fenty brought together two distinct worlds: industrial denim language and body-focused lingerie. The crossover worked because it didn’t dilute either identity. Instead, it merged them into a shared visual space that felt immediate and culturally aligned. Rihanna’s involvement ensured visibility beyond fashion, pushing the collaboration into mainstream awareness. This type of partnership reflects a broader shift where brands no longer operate in isolation. Fashion, music, and lifestyle categories overlap continuously, and collaborations like this accelerate that process. The result is not just product, but a moment that exists across multiple audiences simultaneously.
PRADA RETAIL MOMENT
Prada continues to demonstrate its commercial strength through consistent retail performance. As new arrivals reach stores, demand remains steady, particularly in accessories and key silhouette pieces. The brand’s uniform-inspired design language translates effectively from runway to retail, maintaining clarity without overextension. Prada’s position is defined by stability — it does not rely on sudden shifts or disruptive moments. Instead, it builds influence through continuity. This approach allows the brand to maintain both cultural relevance and commercial reliability, a balance that few houses manage consistently.
ASICS x KIKO
The ongoing collaboration between ASICS and Kiko Kostadinov remains one of the strongest intersections between performance footwear and high fashion. Each release builds on established silhouettes while introducing new color systems and material treatments. The partnership succeeds because it respects both sides: technical credibility from ASICS and design direction from Kostadinov. The GEL platform continues to function as a base for experimentation, allowing the collaboration to evolve without losing recognition. In the current market, footwear operates as a primary driver of visibility, and this collaboration consistently performs within that space.
