This is Issue 22.

CELINE - MICHAEL RIDER

One of the most anticipated moments of Paris Fashion Week came with Michael Rider’s first menswear collection for Celine. Tasked with leading one of luxury fashion’s most influential houses, Rider introduced a vision that balanced the brand’s refined heritage with a more relaxed and contemporary approach. Soft tailoring, understated luxury and effortless silhouettes defined the collection, marking a clear transition into Celine’s next chapter. Rather than attempting to recreate the past, Rider established a fresh direction while respecting the codes that made the house globally influential. The debut immediately became one of the week’s most discussed presentations and signaled the beginning of a new era for the French fashion house.

DIOR - JONATHAN ANDERSON

Jonathan Anderson continued shaping his vision for Dior with one of the most closely watched shows of the season. Instead of relying on spectacle, the collection explored proportion, craftsmanship and a modern interpretation of Dior’s historic identity. Tailoring remained central, while softer silhouettes and subtle detailing reflected Anderson’s distinctive design language. Following months of anticipation, the presentation demonstrated growing confidence and a clearer understanding of how his creative vision can coexist with one of fashion’s most iconic maisons. Widely praised by critics and industry insiders, the show confirmed Dior as one of the defining moments of Paris Fashion Week.

SAINT LAURENT - ANTHONY VACCARELLO

Anthony Vaccarello delivered one of the strongest collections of the week, reinforcing Saint Laurent’s position at the forefront of contemporary luxury menswear. Presented in a dramatic setting, the collection combined sharp tailoring with fluid fabrics, transparent layers and elegant evening silhouettes. Rather than chasing trends, Vaccarello focused on refinement, confidence and timeless sophistication, continuing to evolve the house’s unmistakable identity. The balance between sensuality and precision resonated strongly with editors and buyers, making the presentation one of the season’s critical highlights. Once again, Saint Laurent demonstrated why it remains one of Paris Fashion Week’s most consistently influential brands.

WILLY CHAVARRIA

Willy Chavarria once again delivered one of the most powerful collections of Paris Fashion Week, combining exceptional tailoring with deeply personal storytelling. His presentation continued to explore themes of identity, community and social commentary while maintaining the oversized silhouettes and precise construction that have become synonymous with the brand. Rather than separating fashion from culture, Chavarria used the runway as a platform for dialogue, proving that contemporary menswear can be both visually compelling and culturally significant. The collection further cemented his reputation as one of the industry’s most important creative voices.

RICK OWENS

Rick Owens presented another unforgettable show, staying true to the uncompromising vision that has defined his career. Monumental silhouettes, architectural proportions and a dramatic runway atmosphere once again blurred the line between fashion and performance art. While remaining unmistakably Rick Owens, the collection introduced subtle evolutions in tailoring and construction that demonstrated the brand’s constant progression. As one of the most photographed and discussed presentations of the week, the show reaffirmed Owens’ position as one of Paris Fashion Week’s most influential independent designers.

HED MAYNER

Hed Mayner continued refining his distinctive approach to oversized tailoring with a collection that balanced volume, precision and restraint. Relaxed proportions, sculptural outerwear and carefully constructed silhouettes created garments that felt both contemporary and timeless. Rather than following seasonal trends, the Israeli designer remained focused on craftsmanship and functionality, further establishing his reputation as one of menswear’s most respected independent talents. The collection received widespread praise from editors for its quiet confidence and exceptional execution.

JUNYA WATANABE

Junya Watanabe once again demonstrated his ability to merge technical innovation with classic menswear references. The collection explored intricate construction techniques, utilitarian influences and unexpected fabric combinations while maintaining the precision that has defined the Japanese designer’s work for decades. Every look reflected meticulous craftsmanship and an experimental spirit that continues to distinguish Junya Watanabe from the rest of the Paris calendar. The presentation reinforced the importance of technical excellence within contemporary fashion.

SONGZIO

Songzio delivered one of the strongest collections among the independent labels in Paris. Known for combining artistic expression with dark tailoring and sculptural silhouettes, the Korean house continued to refine its unique visual identity. Dramatic layering, painterly textures and precise construction created a collection that felt both emotional and highly sophisticated. As global interest in Korean fashion continues to grow, Songzio further strengthened its position as one of the leading names shaping modern menswear.

SACAI

Sacai presented another highly praised collection built around Chitose Abe’s signature hybrid design language. Tailoring merged seamlessly with sportswear, technical fabrics met traditional construction and familiar garments were transformed through innovative layering. Rather than reinventing its identity, Sacai continued evolving a design philosophy that has consistently influenced contemporary fashion. The collection highlighted the brand’s ability to balance creativity with wearability while remaining one of the industry’s most respected innovators.

KIKO KOSTADINOV

Kiko Kostadinov once again pushed the boundaries of contemporary menswear through experimental tailoring and advanced garment construction. Technical fabrics, unconventional proportions and architectural silhouettes defined a collection that challenged traditional ideas of luxury clothing. While remaining highly conceptual, the presentation demonstrated remarkable attention to craftsmanship and functionality. Editors and buyers praised the collection for its originality, further cementing Kostadinov’s reputation as one of fashion’s most forward-thinking designers.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Yohji Yamamoto delivered another deeply poetic collection centered around timeless tailoring, exceptional craftsmanship and understated elegance. Rather than responding to short-term trends, the Japanese designer remained committed to creating garments with longevity and emotional depth. Flowing silhouettes, monochromatic palettes and meticulous construction reflected a philosophy that values permanence over novelty. In a season driven by creative transitions, Yohji once again reminded the industry of the enduring power of authentic design.

COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus continued challenging conventional menswear through conceptual design and sculptural silhouettes. Rei Kawakubo presented a collection that questioned traditional ideas of tailoring, proportion and form while embracing theatrical styling and artistic experimentation. More than simply presenting clothing, the show invited audiences to reconsider the possibilities of fashion itself. Once again, the house demonstrated why it remains one of the most influential creative forces in contemporary design.

LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI

Louis Gabriel Nouchi continued his impressive rise with another confident presentation built around sensual tailoring and understated minimalism. Clean silhouettes, fluid construction and a strong emphasis on modern masculinity defined the collection, further distinguishing LGN from many of the week’s emerging labels. With each season, the Paris-based designer strengthens his position as one of France’s most promising contemporary voices, earning growing recognition from buyers, editors and the international fashion community.

KENZO

Kenzo expanded the traditional fashion week format by transforming Place des Victoires into a week-long cultural destination. Alongside the runway presentation, the brand introduced cafés, markets, exhibitions and community spaces that invited the public into the world of Kenzo. The initiative reflected a growing industry shift toward immersive brand experiences that extend beyond seasonal collections. By combining fashion, culture and public engagement, Kenzo demonstrated how luxury brands increasingly build communities rather than simply presenting products.

SOLID HOMME

Solid Homme delivered one of the cleanest tailoring collections of the season, reinforcing South Korea’s growing influence within global menswear. Relaxed silhouettes, refined proportions and understated styling created a collection built around precision rather than spectacle. The presentation reflected the brand’s consistent commitment to craftsmanship and timeless design while further establishing Solid Homme as one of the strongest voices emerging from the Korean fashion scene.

LEMAIRE

Lemaire once again proved that quiet luxury remains one of the strongest directions in contemporary fashion. Relaxed tailoring, exceptional fabric selection and understated styling defined a collection that prioritized longevity over seasonal trends. Every look reflected the brand’s commitment to timeless elegance and effortless sophistication. In a week filled with high-profile debuts and theatrical presentations, Lemaire stood out through confidence, restraint and impeccable execution.

HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake continued exploring innovation through movement, lightweight construction and the brand’s signature pleating techniques. The collection celebrated functionality without sacrificing creativity, presenting garments designed to move naturally with the body while maintaining their sculptural form. Combining technical research with minimalist aesthetics, the presentation once again demonstrated why Homme Plissé remains one of the most influential names in contemporary menswear.