This is Issue 38.

McQUEEN - SEÁN McGIRR EXITS

Alexander McQueen is entering another period of creative uncertainty following the departure of Seán McGirr, whose tenure at the British fashion house comes to an end after approximately three years. The announcement arrives only weeks after McQueen’s highly anticipated return to London Fashion Week, a moment that was intended to reconnect the house with the city and creative culture that shaped its founder. McGirr’s appointment represented an attempt to develop a new identity for McQueen following Sarah Burton’s long period of leadership, balancing the brand’s theatrical heritage with a more contemporary approach to clothing. His departure raises questions about the future direction of the house at a time when its parent company is navigating wider commercial challenges. As the fashion industry continues experiencing an unusually rapid cycle of creative-director changes, McQueen becomes another example of the tension between long-term creative development and the immediate expectations placed on luxury brands.

CALVIN KLEIN - VERONICA LEONI DEPARTS

Calvin Klein is preparing for another creative transition following the departure of Veronica Leoni after just four collections. Her appointment was intended to restore the relevance of Calvin Klein Collection within the international designer fashion landscape, reconnecting the American brand with its minimalist heritage while introducing a more contemporary perspective. Leoni approached the house through restrained silhouettes, precise tailoring and a renewed emphasis on the understated sensuality that once defined Calvin Klein’s identity. However, her relatively short tenure highlights the increasing pressure facing creative directors tasked with repositioning established fashion brands. Rebuilding a recognizable design language requires time, particularly for a company operating across multiple commercial categories and audiences. The departure leaves Calvin Klein facing another important decision about its creative future and raises broader questions about whether the industry’s current pace of leadership changes allows designers sufficient time to establish meaningful identities.

MARK GONG - SHANGHAI’S MILLION-DOLLAR MOMENT

Shanghai-based designer Mark Gong is emerging as an increasingly significant figure within China’s rapidly developing independent fashion industry. Known for his distinctive interpretation of contemporary femininity, Gong has built a recognizable aesthetic combining sensual silhouettes, youthful references and an approach to glamour shaped by both Chinese and international fashion culture. His growing commercial success reflects a wider transformation within the Chinese market, where independent designers are developing businesses capable of competing for attention beyond their domestic audiences. Rather than relying exclusively on established European luxury houses, younger consumers are increasingly engaging with local labels that offer strong identities and a closer connection to contemporary culture. Gong’s development demonstrates how Shanghai is evolving from an important luxury consumer market into a creative center capable of producing internationally relevant fashion businesses. The industry’s next generation is increasingly emerging from cities outside the traditional European fashion capitals.

SS27 - THE BUYERS HAVE SPOKEN

Following the conclusion of the Spring/Summer 2027 fashion season, international buyers are beginning to identify which runway ideas are likely to translate into commercial success. While fashion shows often emphasize spectacle and creative experimentation, buyers approach collections through a different perspective, considering customer demand, product relevance and the balance between distinctive design and everyday wearability. Among the recurring directions identified for SS27 are more defined waistlines and increasingly unconventional footwear, reflecting a continued interest in expressive silhouettes and accessories with strong visual identities. The buying process also reveals the distance that can exist between critical attention and commercial expectations. Not every widely discussed runway moment becomes a successful product, and some of the season’s most commercially relevant pieces receive relatively little attention during fashion week. As the industry moves toward the next retail season, the focus shifts from what designers presented to what consumers may ultimately choose to wear.