This is Issue 31.

UNIQLO U - END OF THE LEMAIRE ERA

After ten years, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are concluding their creative leadership of Uniqlo U, bringing an influential chapter in accessible design to an end. Since launching the line, the duo translated their approach to refined minimalism, thoughtful proportions and functional clothing into products available to a global audience. Uniqlo U demonstrated that sophisticated design principles did not have to remain exclusive to luxury fashion, helping elevate everyday essentials through material, construction and silhouette. Their final Fall Winter 2026 collection closes a decade-long collaboration that quietly influenced the wider industry and changed expectations around what mass-market clothing could look and feel like.

CHOPOVA LOWENA - FIRST STORE

Chopova Lowena has opened its first permanent store in London’s Bethnal Green, marking a major milestone for the independent label founded by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena. Rather than creating a conventional luxury boutique, the designers have approached the space as an extension of the eclectic world surrounding the brand, combining retail with a stronger sense of community and culture. The opening reflects Chopova Lowena’s evolution from an emerging London label into an internationally recognised name while maintaining the experimental identity that built its following. At a moment when independent designers face increasing commercial pressure, establishing a physical home represents both an ambitious step forward and a commitment to London’s creative scene.

VOGUE’S NEW GLOBAL DESIGNERS

Vogue’s latest global selection of emerging designers highlights a new generation building fashion beyond the industry’s traditional centers. Among the names are Paris-based Anthony Calydon, Berlin’s Lou de Bètoly, Seoul’s Post Archive Faction, Brazilian label Misci and Shanghai-based Shushu/Tong. Slovenian designer Tanja Vidic also stands out for her experimental knitwear, recently contributing 20 knitted looks to Rick Owens’ Hollywood collection. Across different countries, these designers combine local identity, craftsmanship and increasingly distinct approaches to contemporary fashion. Rather than following one global aesthetic, the selection reflects an industry becoming more decentralized, where regional culture and independent communities can become an advantage. Fashion’s next generation is no longer emerging from only Paris, Milan, London and New York.

GUCCI - PRIMAVERA

Gucci continues to expand its cultural universe with Primavera, a campaign bringing together an unusually diverse cast from music, sport and entertainment. Figures including Jin, EsDeeKid, Rico Nasty, Shawn Mendes and Tom Brady place global celebrity alongside younger voices from underground culture, creating deliberate contrasts between different audiences and creative scenes. Rather than relying on a single face to define the house, the campaign presents Gucci as a meeting point for multiple forms of contemporary culture. The approach reflects the increasing importance of community, music and personality in luxury communication, while demonstrating how a global fashion house can move between mainstream recognition and emerging cultural influence within the same visual world.